WHY GO NOW?

Baden-Baden has been drawing visitors since Roman times, when its healing waters eased Emperor Caracalla's woes. In the 19th century, an enterprising French businessman decided to develop the town into a health and gambling resort, and it soon became one of the highlights of any European aristocrat's grand tour. Today, it remains a charming and elegant place, but its attractions are now available to a wider public. From next Wednesday, this lovely town on the river Oos will be directly connected to the UK, in time for sunny autumn days and wine festivals throughout the neighbouring Black Forest. An extravagantly decorated casino, relaxing spas, and a lively cultural scene make it an excellent weekend destination.

BEAM DOWN

Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) starts flying to Baden- Baden Airpark (Karlsruhe-Baden airport in Ryanair-speak) from 24 September. As with most new routes, prices are currently low (pounds 65 return for next weekend, for example). The airport is connected by bus 205 to Baden- Baden railway station (1) and the town centre. This only runs Monday to Friday, and the bus company has no immediate plans to extend the service, despite the arrival of Ryanair. A taxi to the town centre costs about EUR25 (pounds 18) and takes about 15 minutes.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Baden-Baden's historic centre is compact and pedestrian-friendly, but the modern town spreads out over several valleys: the railway station (1) is a few miles to the north-west. The local bus service is excellent. From the railway station, the centre can be reached in 10 minutes on buses 201, 205 and 216. A single costs EUR1.90 (pounds 1.35) and a 24-hour card costs EUR4 (pounds 2.80) for an adult, or EUR6 (pounds 4.25) for a "family card" (up to five people). There are two tourist offices (00 49 7221 275200; www.baden-baden.com): the main branch (2) is at Schwarzwaldstrasse 52 (Monday-Saturday, 9am- 6pm, Sundays and public holidays, 9am-1pm); and there's a small branch in the central Trinkhalle (3) (Monday to Saturday, 10am-5pm, Sunday, 2-5pm). Contact the German National Tourist Office in London (brochures: 09001 600100; enquiries: 020-7317 0908; www.germany- tourism.de).

CHECK IN

Most of Baden-Baden's hotels cater for the upper end of the market. The swankiest place is town is Brenner's Park-Hotel & Spa (4) at Schillerstrasse 4-6 (00 49 7221 9000; www.brenners.com), a luxurious institution that has welcomed the great and good since 1834. Double rooms start at EUR270 (pounds 190); breakfast is an additional EUR22 (pounds 16) per person. The "Weekend for Two" package, costing EUR860 (pounds 605) for two nights, includes breakfast and a bottle of champagne. There are good mid-range hotels, too. Romerhof (5), at Sophienstrasse 25 (00 49 7221 23415) is friendly and comfortable (EUR92/pounds 65 double, including breakfast). Am Markt (6) at Marktplatz 18 (00 49 7221 27040), is a pleasant family-run hotel a few minutes' walk from the spas. Double rooms cost EUR73 (pounds 52), breakfast included; the hotel also has a three-night package at EUR144.50 (pounds 102) per person, which includes one entry to both the Caracalla and Friedrichsbad spas. All adult visitors pay a resort tax of EUR2.80 (pounds 2) per night in Baden-Baden.

TAKE A HIKE

Start at Goetheplatz (7), then cross Leopoldplatz (8) and follow Gernsbacherstrasse up to Jesuitenplatz (9). Take the steps to the Rathaus (town hall) and Stiftkirche, the biggest Catholic church in town. Wander across Marktplatz (10). From here, the energetic can climb more steps up Schlossstaffeln to Neues Schloss (unfortunately closed to the public): the terrace offers good views down to the town and across the valley. Otherwise, walk down to the Friedrichsbad spa and out on to Romerplatz (11).

THE ICING ON THE CAKE

No weekend in Baden-Baden is complete without a visit to one of the baths. In a neoclassical labyrinth of tiled rooms, Friedrichsbad (00 49 7221 27 59 20), on Romerplatz (11), is the finest. Also known as the Roman-Irish baths, it offers the traditional version. Bathers follow 16 naked steps to cleanliness and well-being, including an optional soap- and-brush massage and a half-hour snooze. Men and women bathe separately on Mondays and Thursdays: bathing-rooms are mixed on other days. Open Mon-Sat 9am-10pm, noon-8pm on Sundays; admission EUR21 (pounds 15) for three hours, or EUR29 (pounds 20.50) for an extra half-hour, which includes the soap-and-brush massage; towels and slippers provided. Next door, the Caracalla (00 49 7221 27 59 40) is more playful. Visitors move between two open-air pools, several indoor pools and saunas. Swimming-costumes are worn except in the upstairs saunas. Open 8am-10pm daily; admission EUR12 (pounds 8.50) for two hours; EUR14 (pounds 10) for three hours; and EUR16 (pounds 11.30) for four hours (bring a towel). Massages can be booked in advance.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

Marlene Dietrich said it was the most beautiful casino she had seen; Dostoevsky probably wished he'd never set eyes on it. Baden- Baden's Casino (00 49 7221 21060), in the Kurhaus (18), opens its doors to roulette players from 2pm daily (other games begin as the day progresses); closed on certain public holidays. A day ticket costs EUR3 (pounds 2.20). Dress is formal, the minimum age is 21, and passports must be shown. Guided tours of the red-and-gold Second Empire rooms are open to all, and run from 9.30am (after 1 October: 10am) until 11.30am; they cost EUR4 (pounds 2.30).

WRITE A POSTCARD

Pop into the Trinkhalle (3), the long Pump Hall (where crinolined ladies used to flirt as they sipped thermal water), and you'll find a selection of old-fashioned postcards on sale, such as a turn-of-the century greetings card or photo of the original Baden-Baden airbase, used for Zeppelin airships. Write them inside the very chic Trinkhalle cafe, or on the terrace.

A WALK IN THE PARK

The Lichtentaler Allee stretches for 2km from the theatre (19) to the 13th-century Lichtenthal Kloster (20), a former Cistercian convent (now a school), passing tennis courts and fine mansion houses. First planted with oaks in 1655, the park was redesigned in the 19th century as an English garden; Bismarck and Queen Victoria strolled here. Today, the fountains, manicured lawns, rare trees and the Oos river continue to ensure that this is a popular place for a gentle walk.

OUT TO BRUNCH

Part of the casino building (18), the Kurhaus restaurant at Kaiserallee 1 (00 49 7221 9070) serves a different buffet-brunch every Sunday, live piano included. Upcoming themes include French, Austrian, and Spanish cuisine. Served from 10am onwards, the meal costs EUR22.50 (pounds 16), free for under 10s; reservations recommended.

TAKE A RIDE

Take buses 204 or 205 from Leopoldsplatz (8) to the Merkurwald stop, where Germany's steepest cable-car track has been operating since 1913. A return ticket to the Merkur summit (668m) costs EUR4 (pounds 2.80); the cars leave every six minutes. From the top, the views are magnificent: Baden- Baden shrinks to a small knot of red roofs in a blue-and-green patchwork of intersecting valleys, and every hilltop seems to have its own ruins. The Merkur summit is also a good starting-point for several signposted walks.

SUNDAY MORNING, GO TO CHURCH

Baden-Baden is home to two singular churches: the St Christopher "Autobahn" church, a pyramid-shaped concrete structure built in the late 1970s on the A5 motorway (Sandweier stop, 8km from the town). Its stained-glass windows give a contemporary edge to biblical tales (Herod, for example, becomes a medal-covered general). Back in the centre, the onion-domes of the white Russian Orthodox church at Lichtenalerstrasse 76 (17) contrast with the tall German steeples elsewhere. It was erected in the 1880s for the many upper-class Russians who, like Turgenev and Chekhov, came here to gamble or improve their health. It opens daily until 1 December, 10am- 6pm; admission for non-worshippers costs EUR0.70 (50p).

DINING WITH THE LOCALS

Stahlbad (14), on the edge of the Lichtentaler Allee at Augustplatz 2 (00 49 7221 24569), has won prizes for its cuisine. It has a regularly changing menu: recent dishes have included chicken with paprika sauce and melon chutney, at EUR15 (pounds 10.50), and lamb fillet with thyme, EUR23.50 (pounds 17); open Tuesday-Sunday, noon-2pm and 6-10pm. Many hotels have excellent restaurants: at the Hotel am Friedrichsbad (15), Gernsbacher Strasse 31, the Prager Stuben restaurant (00 49 7221 396340) specialises in hearty Czech and German cuisine: carp dishes or goulash at EUR15.90 (pounds 12) and Prague cutlets with horseradish sauce for EUR8.90 (pounds 6.50). The Lanterne (16) at Gernsbacher Strasse 10-12 (00 49 7221 29999), serves Baden specialities at modest prices, including liver sausage, fried noodles and trout.

LUNCH ON THE RUN