FEATURE

A LITTLE TLC IS ALL THAT IT TAKES TO GET YOUR RIG OUT OF HIBERNATION

You just woke your RV after its winter hibernation and it's time for your first big trip of the new RVing season. You're cruising down the highway with the proverbial wind at your back, and everything is right with the world. You're in the fast lane, and the engine in your truck-and-trailer combo or motorhome is purring along. Suddenly, there is a pop and a flapping noise, and every red light on the dash comes on. Your power steering is gone, and the brakes feel like they're on the way out, too. You weave across two lanes of traffic and pull to the side. The midday sun seems noticeably hotter now that your air conditioner is dead.

A quick inspection confirms your worst fear: a belt has broken, and if there was more than one, it has likely taken the others with it. The kids are already asking, "Daddy, why are we stopping here?" Your wife is rolling her eyes. You have no spare belts, nor the tools to replace them if you did, and you're out of cell-phone range. The worst of it is, you know very well that it's your fault. You knew the belts were past their prime, but hey, just one more trip, right?

A winter's rest can be tougher on an RV than you imagine, and that first trip of the year can likewise be hard on your rig. Some preparation can ease that transition back into an active RVuse season.

Here are some tips for being better prepared:

Before you roll out of your driveway, you should at least have some basic tools, including pliers, screwdrivers, a set of wrenches, fuses and electrical tape. A handheld multi-tool can also be a help. A flashlight, fresh batteries and an electrical test light are also a good idea. A set of jumper cables will allow someone else to help you if it's just a discharged battery. Your emergency kit should also include a can of spray lubricant, a roll of gray tape, some rags or paper shop towels, radiator leak preventer, a length of heater hose and a plastic hose coupler with some hose clamps, some odds and ends of wire (good old bailing wire still fixes things) and, in case all else fails, a hammer You should have a pint each of power-steering fluid and brake fluid, a quart of automatic-transmission fluid, a couple quarts of engine oil and a hydraulic jack and wheel-socket wrench. Also, make sure your spare tire is fully inflated.

Nowadays, you don't really need a lot of spare parts, but a new drive belt (or a set) is a good idea, and an extra oil filter and fuel filter can be useful. It pays to know your rig's peculiarities. Specific tools like Torx, metric and Allen head-drivers may be required for simple repairs. The best way to learn about these is to follow a comprehensive maintenance schedule.

BATTERIES

Many of today's batteries are maintenance-free, but repair shops and many parts houses will gladly check your battery and electrical charging system, often at no cost. There are several things you can do to avoid problems. Clean and tighten all connections, including the frame or engine-block ground straps. Clean your terminals, both battery and cables, with a mixture of water and baking soda. Use a wire battery-terminal brush to remove heavy deposits and always be sure to wear safety goggles. A battery-cable remover may be a useful tool. A thin coating of grease on the battery posts can retard future corrosion. If your rig is parked near a 120-volt AC outlet, a trickle-charge-maintenance device can maintain a full charge and prevent sulfation between the plates, which is the cause of most battery failures. If the batteries have removable caps, check and fill the cells to the proper level with distilled water.

HOSES AND COOLING SYSTEM

Hoses are the arteries of your cooling system, and it's a good idea to check for cracks, soft spots, bulges or leaks. Hose clamps can be tightened if they have adjustment screws. Many hoses today are custom-molded for each model of engine and vehicle, so when in doubt, you should replace them. Finding some little compound-curved snake of a hose at a country parts house can be difficult.

Radiators can become clogged with deposits, especially if you have not flushed and renewed the coolant. Basically, your radiator is a sealed system. If the level of coolant is down, it's a sure sign of a problem brewing. The little fins on your radiators can become bent or clogged with bugs. A garden-hose sprayer will usually dislodge most debris, and a radiator-fin straightening tool can fix the fins.

Cooling systems in some vehicles, particularly older ones, should be periodically backflushed and refilled with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations. It's best to have this done by a qualified service center. Ethylene glycol (EG) is highly poisonous and needs to be disposed of properly. While EG has been the standard for years, the more environmentally friendly propylene glycol (PG) is marketed by Fleetguard as part of its ES System, essentially a lifetime coolant that normally does not need replacing. For those of us running diesel engines, it's very important to choose an antifreeze, such as Fleetguard ES, which has the necessary additives to prevent cavitation or pitting of the cylinder liner.

With the engine cool, you can check the condition of the seal on your radiator cap. If you have any doubts, service stations can pressure-test the seal. If the proper mix of coolant and water has been maintained and there are no leaks, the cap and thermostat are most likely fine. Occasionally, such as when you check your oil, grasp the fan blade and wiggle it, front to back. There should be virtually no movement. Any significant play in the blade could be the sign of a waterpump-bearing deterioration, and should be watched.

BELTS

Multiple belts or serpentine belts are critical components that can stop you dead in your tracks if they fail. They drive the power steering, the alternator, the vacuum pump on some diesels, the air conditioner, the air pump and the water pump. As previously mentioned, when one belt breaks, it will frequently get caught in the pulleys and flip off other belts. Installing belts on the side of the road can be an arduous task, even with the right tools. From my viewpoint, it's simply not worth the chance, so I change all the belts once a year. It's a judgment call, of course. Call it insurance, but I'd rather do it in my driveway than at night on some freeway off-ramp.

While you're checking rubber things, inspect your wiper blades. They should be replaced every year to maintain the best performance.

BRAKES AND BEARINGS

Whether you drive a motorhome or pull a trailer, the brakes take a beating. By removing a wheel, the drum on a trailer will usually slide off, and the condition of the shoes can be inspected. The main concern with trailer brakes is that a problem is usually not noticed until a major failure has occurred. That can be dangerous or expensive or both.

While you're at it, with the wheel off the ground, wiggle each tire in and out; there should be minimal play, and the wheel should spin freely with only the slightest drag from the brake pads. If you see any slop, it's a good idea to inspect the trailer bearings and repack with the appropriate grease. If you lack the skill to do this correctly, take the rig to a qualified service center once a year for seasonal service. The axle manufacturer recommends that the bearings in trailers and fifth-wheels be repacked once a year, regardless of mileage. Follow your tow rig's owner's manual for recommended bearing service.

Before you hit the road, test to see if your trailer's breakaway pin is functioning. When it's pulled out, it should lock the trailer wheels.

Like your cooling system, the tow vehicle's brakes are a sealed system. If your brake-fluid reservoir is low, it's a good indication there's a seal leaking somewhere. Unless you are qualified, a major brake overhaul is ajob for an expert. You can easily inspect your own disc brakes by removing a wheel, but do you know what you're looking at? Professional brake shops will often inspect your discs, pads, drums and shoes as a courtesy or for a small fee. Check your emergencybrake cable and test it on an incline.

LUBRICATION

Even if it's not quite time yet, I like to change the oil and filter before a long trip. At the very least, you should follow the recommended service interval in your owner's manual. A normal oil change with filter and lubrication of grease fittings on tie rods, front yokes and U-joints can be done in your driveway. Fuel filters and air filters can also be changed at this time. Be sure to use the correct grade of oil recommended by the manufacturer of your engine, and dispose of waste oil and filters in a responsible way. Cartridge grease guns are available at auto-supply stores.

TRANSMISSIONS AND DIFFERENTIALS