Chicago Sun-Times: Resorts are last biggies for a while

LAS VEGAS--Is this the beginning of a lull, or the end of an era? The final months of 2001 ended in a familiar way for gambling's capital city with the opening of two new casino resorts. Just west of the Strip on Flamingo Road, where the Rio and Gold Coast already draw a mix of travelers and Las Vegas locals, George Maloof opened the Palms at the end of November.

Then, at the end of December, the latest in the line of Stations Casinos, Green Valley Ranch Station, opened farther south, in the newly trendy Green Valley area off Interstate 215 at Green Valley Parkway.

The opening of two new casino resorts might seem almost like business as usual. After all, Las Vegas has been shaped, reshaped and reshaped again by a building boom that has brought 27 resorts since 1994, with at least two and as many as six added each year.

Grand old names such as the Sands and Dunes, and not-so-grand names such as the Hacienda, have made way for megaresorts such as Bellagio, the Venetian, Luxor and Mandalay Bay, practically self- contained casino cities with dining and entertainment options light years beyond the scope of the smaller operations they replaced.

But these aren't business-as-usual times. Even before the Sept. 11 tragedies wreaked havoc on the entire travel industry, Las Vegas already was bracing for a softening market due to nearby competition from Native American casinos in California. Gambling revenues in Nevada have declined every month since September, even while riverboat markets have shown gains as gamblers stay home to play.

After all that building, a lull already was in the works before Sept. 11. The only resorts due for completion this year are on a smaller scale, the 350-room Monte Lago at Lake Las Vegas, and the locals-oriented Wildfire on Rancho Drive in northwest Las Vegas.

No new resorts are on tap for 2003. In fact, the next major complex in the works is Steve Wynn's $1.6 billion La Reve, to be built on the site of the Desert Inn. With groundbreaking this month, early forecasts are that La Reve will open late in 2004.

In this time of retrenchment, before the tourist market firms and while waiting to see if La Reve sparks a new boom, the Palms and Green Valley Ranch Station have the ingredients to thrive. Both are built with the games and dining options local players expect-- including, at the Palms, several ventures from the folks behind Chicago's glam Nine restaurant--but also have the amenities to attract out-of-towners.

THE PALMS

When Maloof owned the Fiesta in northwest Las Vegas, he dubbed it "The Royal Flush Capital of the World." Now that he's sold the Fiesta to Stations Casinos, he's appropriated that title for the Palms. Video poker is the game of choice for discerning locals, and the Palms has it. Lots of it, with all the highest pay tables that attract players who know what they want. (A tip for travelers who want the most for their gambling dollar: Casinos that cater to locals usually offer better odds than Strip casinos do, whether on video poker, slot machines or blackjack.)

The Palms' Flamingo Road neighbor, the Rio, already has proved that an off-Strip casino hotel can attract both locals and travelers. The proximity of the Palms, Rio and Gold Coast gives players who like a change of scenery the opportunity for a little off-Strip casino hopping.

Visiting with my father and brother, I was duly impressed with the quality of the gaming and with the wide variety of restaurants. We ate at Garduno's, a Mexican restaurant that gets full marks for its fajitas express line, a quick lunch option where a chef grills your fajitas choice as you watch.

Other restaurants include Little Buddha, with fresh sushi and Asian food; the French restaurant Alize; the /9 Steakhouse; Sunrise Cafe, a 24-hour coffee shop; the Blue Agave 24-hour oyster and chili bar, and the Festival Market Buffet, with multiple serving stations for Mexican, Asian, Italian and American foods, many prepared to order by a chef at the station.

The Palms makes a big play for the younger end of the market with its Rain nightclub, a three-story disco that opens at 11 each night. For a great view of the Strip at night, there's the Ghost Bar, open at 7 a.m. with an indefinite closing time as late as 5 a.m., on floor No. 55 floor of the 455-room hotel tower. (The monthly Las Vegas Advisor newsletter points out that it's really the 45th floor. No floors are numbered in the 40s in deference to an Asian superstition.)

This is a full-service resort, with a spa, movie theaters and an outdoor nightclub due to open by the pool this spring. Rooms are a comfy 440 square feet, and rates range from about $120 to $150 a night. Those who gamble while using a player rating card may get a lower rate, or even a complimentary room. This is Las Vegas, and it's the gambling that drives the business.

GREEN VALLEY RANCH STATION

Stations Casinos are flung far and wide throughout Las Vegas-- Palace Station on Sahara east of the Strip; Texas Station on Rancho in northwest Las Vegas; Boulder Station west of the Strip on Boulder Highway; Sunset Station to the south in nearby Henderson.

The chain is extremely popular with locals, and even though most aren't as near the Strip as the Rio or Palms, these casinos have carved out a loyal following among travelers willing to explore a little.

Meal deals are part of the attraction. All Stations casinos include high-quality buffets, and the Feast at Green Valley ranks with the best of them. At the $7.99 lunch buffet--which I got comped with points earned at other Stations casinos; all use the same player ratings card--I started with hot and sour soup and baby bok choy from the Chinese station, then followed with turkey and dressing from the American station. All were fresh, tasty and well-prepared--this is not cafeteria food, folks.

Other dining options include the Border Grill for Mexican food; Il Fornaio for Italian; Bull Shrimp for steaks and seafood; Trophy's sports bar and grill; Fado Irish Pub; the Original Pancake House, and a food court.

Rooms are large and upscale, at 450 square feet with more comfortable than usual reading chairs and, for an extra fee, high- speed Internet access in every room. Rates run from about $130 to $200 a night, but as at the Palms and any other casino hotel, if you stay and play you can knock that price down.

For entertainment, there's the Whiskey Sky nightclub, a large pool with sand beach and a 10-screen movie theater. An outdoor amphitheater is in the works.

As at the Palms, the casino floor was designed with locals in mind. Video poker games outnumber slot machines. The table games pit offers blackjack, craps, roulette, Three Card Poker, Let It Ride, mini-baccarat and pai-gow poker.

For visitors ready for more than the glitz of the Strip, Green Valley Ranch Station and the Palms are worth more than a casual look. After all, these are the newest games in town--and figure to stay that way for a while.

Specifically

Call the Palms at (866) 942-7777 or visit www.thepalmslasvegas.com. Call Green Valley Ranch's number at (866) 782-9487 or visit www.greenvalleyranchresort.com.