Independent, The (London): ROOM SERVICE: THE MIRAGE, LAS VEGAS

Turn left at the volcano and follow the driveway, lined with gracious palms, to the mock colonial entrance. Wander into the nine- storey atrium dripping with tropical vegetation and cascading waterfalls. As you check in, let the giant coral reef aquarium (that's 20,000 gallons of salt water) behind reception cast its hypnotic spell, as 90 species of fluorescent fish, including shark, puffer and angel fish, glide silently past. Then zigzag through the bleary-eyed zombies playing row upon row of slot machines as you negotiate a route to the lifts. Resist the temptation to slip them a Pro-Plus or three and keep your eyes up, at all times, or the carpet will give you the spins.

The Mirage is a Polynesian paradise - or purgatory depending on your point of view. Every Vegas hotel worth its chips has a theme - in this case the South Seas - and a gimmick. At the Mirage it's a volcano. Fifty feet high, surrounded by a three-acre lagoon, from 7pm until midnight the volcano erupts every 15 minutes, shooting plumes of fire 40 feet into the air. That's not all of course. In the atrium there are 500 palm trees, banana trees, elephant ears and orchids and a computerised misting system which creates a hazy tropical rainforest effect. There are two outdoor pools surrounded by waterfalls and foliage, a shopping mall, salon and spa. And entertainment courtesy of illusionists Siegfried and Roy and their magnificent white tigers.

But what most people come for is the gaming area - all 100,000 square feet of it, where you can play blackjack, craps, roulette, baccarat, pai gow and Caribbean stud poker - all day and all night.

LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION

The Mirage is at 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, NV 89109 (001 702 791 7111, www.mirage.com) on the Strip in between Ceasar's Palace and Treasure Island.

Time to international airport: McCarran International Airport is just three miles from the Strip. A taxi will cost about $15 (pounds 9.50).

ARE YOU LYING COMFORTABLY?

As long as you don't mind sleeping in an airtight vacuum. We were in room 24066 on the 24th floor. A sign warned that if we opened the window an alarm would go off summoning the fire brigade. (Clearly they don't want you jumping after losing at blackjack.) Anyhow you're not here to sleep, you're here to gamble. In Vegas the emphasis has never been on the rooms. The Mirage has, however, just spent pounds 32m refurbishing all of its 3,044 bedrooms and suites. Bathrooms now come with a hefty amount of Spanish and Indonesian marble. Ours had a powerful shower, whirlpool bath and a toilet with suction to match any aeroplane loo.If you throw up and flush, chances are you'll get sucked out too - probably a quicker escape route than the window.

The carpets are busy, the decor still dodgy. In fact the room's nothing to write home about - but where else would you have a view of a giant volcano spraying fire and water next to an enormous billboard of Siegfried and Roy in all their perma-tan glory?

Freebies: those Vegas essentials, hairspray and mouthwash, along with the usual shampoo and soap.

Keeping in touch: two phone lines, one for internet access, and TV.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Deluxe guest rooms from $99 (pounds 64), suites from $275 (pounds 178).

I'm not paying that: Circus Circus 2880 Las Vegas Boulevard South (001 702 734 0410, www.circuscircus.com) has doubles from $34 (pounds 22) until 3 October.