Evening Standard (London): The club where a drink can cost Pounds 1,500 a GLASS

MORE than 200 years old, it spends all of its time locked in a glass cabinet - and is probably the most expensive drink in London.

But so far no member of London's latest club for the superrich has sampled the brandy that goes for Pounds 1,500 ... a glass.

The bottle of Clos de Griffier Vieux Cognac dates from 1788 - before Disraeli was born or Jane Austen wrote her very first book. Now it takes pride of place at Fifty, a club-cum-casino in St James's aimed at the young, hip and very, very wealthy.

Members such as Chelsea owner Roman Abramovich, and fellow Russian billionaire Boris Berezovsky, could easily afford to savour the spirit, even at Pounds 1,500 for a 5cl shot.

So could showbusiness names seen at Fifty, including Dannii Minogue, Britney Spears, Kevin Spacey, Bruce Willis, Justin Timberlake, Kim Cattrall, and Lord Lloyd-Webber.

But the bottle is untouched, though a couple of cognacs from 1811 and 1812, are half-finished; but then they go for only Pounds 750 a glass.

What would the Clos de Griffier be like? Mark Pardoe, of St James's wine merchant Berry Bros Rudd, said it was difficult to tell: "It is likely to be less spirity than it was and have a more nutty flavour. I imagine it to be like an old dry port. It is unlikely to be at full strength as it would have mellowed over time."

People have at least been enjoying the whisky. This week four businessmen and their companions ran up a Pounds 12,000 drinks bill, including a bottle of 50-year-old Macallan (Pounds 375 a double). The ladies stuck to Cristal. (A magnum of Louis Roederer Cristal Rose 1989 is Pounds 1,200). "Some of these people earn Pounds 250 million a year," said bar manager Jerry Mignot. "What's Pounds 12,000?"

Possibly not that much: in the gaming room the minimum bet is Pounds 10 but highrollers can play blackjack for up to Pounds 20,000 a hand.

Fifty (membership Pounds 750 a year) is owned by London Clubs International, which brought in Robert Earl, the man behind Planet Hollywood, to mastermind its Pounds 8 million transformation.

As a 19th century gaming house, Disraeliand the Duke of Wellington gambled here. Now Fifty seems to be aiming to mix oldstyle clubland and new style glitz. New York designer Jeffrey Beers has added retro Seventies styling to the ornate interiors. The food is overseen by Jean-Georges Vonger-ichten, whose Vong restaurant in New York hosts the likes of Nicole Kidman.

Mr Earl said recently: "I want to make gambling less stuffy, and inject a funkier feeling."

And, no doubt, get someone who's prepared to pay Pounds 1,500 for a glass of brandy.

The pricelist at Fifty

Starters

Warm poached shrimp in tomato horseradish water . . . Pounds 17.50 Foie gras brulE, pistachio and pickled dried cherries .Pounds 15.50

Main courses

Lobster tartine, lemongrass and tomato broth, and pea shoots Pounds 38.50 Veal cutlet with sage and pineapple-kumquat chutney . . . Pounds 27.50 Grilled turbot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Pounds 42.50

Drinks

Clos de Griffier Vieux Cognac (right). . . . . .Pounds 1,500a- glass Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru, Les Demoiselles, Louis Jadot 2000 . . . . . . . . . . .

.Pounds 250

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1er Grand Cru ClassE 1988 . . . . .Pounds 285 Or... a glass of Chablis for just . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Pounds 5