A match made in heaven: Princess Cruises and the South Pacific; the "Love Boats aid the Islands of Love." Polynesia, the world's most romantic cruise destination, inspiration for Michener, musicals, and mutineers; Princess, the world's most romantic cruise line, inspiration for paperbacks, TV shows, and honeymooners. And now Princess sails its most intimate ships on inventive itineraries to the islands of Tahiti and beyond.
The gleaming Tahitian Princess and Pacific Princess perfectly complement the sunny skies, translucent waters, white-powder beaches, and verdant volcanic peaks of this tropical paradise. The 670-passenger cruise liners recall the charming old 640-passenger sisters Island Princess and Pacific Princess of The Love Boat TV fame, but at 30,277 gross register tons the new sisters are half again larger, chockablock with balconied cabins, and filled with the features and amenities today's cruise travelers expect.
Our check-in aboard the Tahitian Princess was short and sweet, a pleasant end to a grueling eight-hour charter flight from Los Angeles to Papeete, Tahiti. Passengers trickle in throughout embarkation day as various flights arrive. The "lei'd-back" welcome reset our inner clocks to island time, reminding us that we were--literally and figuratively--thousands of miles from the rush-hour mob scene of a megaship check-in.
Quickly rejuvenated, we stepped back ashore to catch the cosmopolitan capital in full Saturday night swing. Vaiete Square, at the foot of the pier, was packed with les roulottes (rolling restaurants)--mini-bus-type vehicles that unfold into eateries dishing up everything from barbecued surf & turf to flaming crepes. A traditional Tahitian combo commanded the bandstand as couples young and old swayed in the plaza while children played in the park. We wandered past the moored yachts to To'ata Square on the other side of the harbor, where pop-music performers held sway at an arts & crafts fair we'd spotted earlier from our airport bus. On the stroll back to the ship we felt the culture clash of the trip: a Japanese guitarist growling out Chicago blues at a Greek restaurant in French Polynesia--have mercy?
Princess cleverly book ends its itineraries with full days in Papeete, allowing ample time for a good look at Tahiti, largest island in the Society Islands archipelago. Sunday's all-day tour around the hourglasss-haped isle was a great antidote for our jetlag and a perfect introduction to 10 days of island life on the horizon. The knowledgeable and good-humored guide briefed us on the history and customs of his homeland. We learned about the flora, fauna, and natural wonders during frequent stops at the mountains, by the shore, and in the rain forest; we crawled in caves, dodged spray at the blowholes, marveled at the botanic gardens, wondered at the ancient temples, stretched our legs at an artists colony. After sharing a Tahitian luncheon buffet with locals in their Sunday best, we led the polychromatic fish attracted to the restaurant's pier. The Paul Gauguin museum provided insight into the famous artist's love for the islands and the people. In less than a day we, too, shared his love. Setting sail that evening was bittersweet, bidding adieu to our new favorite island.
Arriving in Huahine, we were delighted to have been elevated from the wait-list for the horseback-ride excursion along the rugged north-shore beach. The mounts are of sturdy Marquesan stock, but the owners impose weight limits, which had been overlooked by some passengers. (To avoid disappointments, book your "Adventures Ashore" tours online with Princess as early as possible.) But our afternoon outing was even more exhilarating. A transplanted Hawaiian archaeologist helped us climb Matairea hill to the 200 stone structures in the royal village of Maeva, one of Oceania's most important archaeological sites. Fantastic historical secrets were revealed, nicely complemented by in depth descriptions of the flora seen on our nature walk to the village. Rounding out the trip were visits at a vanilla-bean farm (the island's major cash crop) and at a river pool filled with rare, freshwater, blue-eyed eels (hand-fed by a few brave souls). Huahine--the remote, contrarian "Wild Island--was now our new favorite.
The 550-mile voyage to the Cook Islands allowed leisurely exploration of the charming Tahitian Princess. She and her sister are the mid-size we prefer but which seems to be out of vogue in these megaship days of economies of scale. In fact, the Pacific Princess and Tahitian Princess were built in 1999 for Renaissance Cruises as the R3 and R4, respectively, in a class of eight vessels virtually identical down to the decor. They came to Princess in late 2002 and early 2003 in the wake of Renaissance's post-9/11 demise. As RI veterans, we instantly recognized the graceful lines of the Tahitian Princess, now with a sparkling white hull and the company's "sea witch" logo on the stack. We wondered how her traditional, European-style, dark-wood interiors would tare in the South Pacific. Very nicely, it turns out, thanks to the Princess touch. The ships arrived in like-new condition, with layouts well suited to the line's "Personal Choice" concept. Soft furnishings were refreshed and a few spaces modified in form and function.
From the Reception lobby on Deck 4 to the Library on Deck 10, from the Club Restaurant aft to the the Cabaret Lounge forward, the Tahitian Princess is awash with rich hardwood paneling, deep patterned carpets, lush leather- or tapestry-upholstered furniture--reminiscent of an elegant English manor, or perhaps a private London club where famed South Seas explorers like Captain James Cook may have held court. But up high and forward, the Nightclub has been transformed from a sports pub into a tropical delight. The dividers and TVs have been removed, and pastels and earth tones added to open up and brighten up the space. Island icons, light woodwork, and bamboo-style furniture complete this perfect daytime observation room, which livens up in the evening, thanks to a cordial combo and large dance floor. Other notable onboard enhancements include the nine-station Internet Cafe, carved from the oversized Card Room, and the full-service Lotus Spa and Fitness Center, now run with a passenger-pleasing/soft sell Princess touch. Thankfully untouched is the homey Library, with its faux fireplace, muraled-dome ceiling, and windows overlooking the lido.
Multiple dining facilities complement Princess's "Personal Choice Cruising." Most relined is the Club Restaurant, serving 'the line's celebrated cuisine to 338 guests at intimate tables seating two to eight, many with seaviews. Dinner alternatives to the two-seating Club are the extra-tariff, by-reservation Sterling Steakhouse Grill and Sabatini's Italian Restaurant, adjoining each other aft on Deck 10, and alternatively open nightly. Sterling, styled like an old Hollywood supper club, dishes up perfectly grilled top cuts and prime rib. Sabatini's, elegantly fashioned as a light, classic, Mediterranean-style trattoria, serves a gourmand feast of Italian delicacies. For a light dinner, try the Pizzeria; for a late dinner, Sterling becomes the Bistro from 11 p.m. till 4 a.m. The indoor/outdoor Panorama Buffet opens at 4 a.m., serving continually until 6 p.m., augmented by the Grill (for morning omelets, afternoon burgers and such) and the Pizzeria at lunch. Breakfast and lunch are open-scaling in the Club, where afternoon tea is also served. Room service rounds out the choices. (Onboard service was superb throughout.)
Staterooms reflect the Princess hallmark of "'affordable balconies"--three-fourths of the 335 cabins have verandas. Brightly decorated with colorful fabrics, rich woods, and light walls, the rooms are full featured and comfortably spacious. The 10 huge suites (786-962 square feet) have it all. The 52 mini-suites (322 sq. It.) offer full baths with tub and bidet, plus refrigerator/mini-bars. The other 170 balconied cabins (216 sq. ft.), 77 oceanviews (165 sq. ft.), and 26 insides (158 sq. ft.) each have twin beds (convertible to queen-size), color TV (with satellite, ship, movie channels), music system, spacious closet, hair-dryer, safe, bathroom with shower.
Four cabins are nicely adapted for the disabled, and onboard accessibility is good. But many calls require tendering, and access onshore is so limited that traveling by wheelchair is most difficult. Similarly, families should think twice before booking this long and costly cruise. The Tahitian Princess has no dedicated children's facilities or counselors (except when 20 or more youngsters are sailing). Some kids will surely love these islands, and the two families on our voyage brought home memories of a lifetime, but playmate selection will be scant, so be prepared for plenty of family togetherness.
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As comfit as the cabins are, Princess's trademark "big ship choice" in this small package gets people out and about. Traditional cruise activities abound--deck sports; sunning, swimming, and hot-tubbing; exercise classes and individual workouts; salon and spa treatments; card, bingo, and casino gaming; wine-tasting and bar-hopping; art auctions and boutique browsing. But Princess has raised the bar with its "ScholarShip@Sea" program, offering passengers the chance to return home with something that will last a lot longer than a suntan. Think computer lessons, culinary classes, pottery workshops (an onboard kiln was added on our cruise)--even supervised star-gazing at night. Filling the evening are the line's award-winning original shows (albeit on a smaller scale), augmented by island acts specially brought onboard (arrive early, these were SRO), dancing, and gambling (in the bright, open, well-ventilated Casino).
For us, aficionados of all things Polynesian, the coup of the cruise was adding Rarotonga, largest of the Cook Islands, to our "collection." From afar, its contour appeared more Hawaiian than Tahitian. Then the tender seemed to time-warp us back to a prewar Honolulu as we stepped ashore in a land of crushed-coral roads and Quonset-hut construction. But we soon learned at the Cultural Centre--where we were shown traditional ways of dressing, cooking, dancing, and more--that Cook Islands customs are more closely linked to the Maori of New Zealand than to the Aloha State. This isolated, independent island nation--which has been known to change its flag colors to reflect the political party in power--falls under New Zealand's umbrella for international matters.
The two-square-mile village of Avarua was blissfully free of any recognizable franchise, and with a favor able exchange rate--and Rarotonga's proximity to oyster beds--we were on a black-pearl hunt. Do your homework in advance, and you can reward yourself with a unique South Seas souvenir of exceptional beauty at a bargain price. Not as stunningly gorgeous as Huahine, but even more relaxed and remote, uncomplicated by global strife, Rarotonga is a dream destination, and our new favorite island.
The main Society Islands are of volcanic origin, most surrounded by barrier reefs, creating calm lagoons offshore. The same ring of coral encircles sister isles Tahaa and Raiatea, our next call. Tiny Tahaa reflects the traditional, tranquil Tahitian lifestyle, is dotted with fragrant vanilla plantations, and populated by fishermen. We docked at Uturoa on Raiatea--second "largest" port in French Polynesia but mostly a bustling village with a nice yacht harbor. Our overnight call allowed time for motorboat excursions to Tahaa and two motus--sea-level islets that pop out of the barrier reef. The afternoon sun/swim/snorkel/picnic was a "Gilligan's Island"-style delight, and the evening's barbecue buffet was a Tahitian treat, complete with a native song and dance show. We've met no friendlier people than those on these sister isles, who urged us again and again to return. Why not? They're our new favorite.
Bora Bora lives up to the legend, At only 18 miles around, with stunning Mt. Otemanu soaring from the center, this isle is the picture-postcard epitome of South Seas splendor. We couldn't seem to get enough of the perfect lagoon, heading ashore only to head hack out to sail, swim, snorkel. We were told this is the island favored by Hollywood types like Brando and Nicholson. Maybe you'll see a celeb at famous Bloody Mary's. We didn't, but the charbroiled jack fish fillets (we'd spotted the fresh catch in town that day) was the tastiest seafood we've found--and the vanilla rum ain't bad either. Beautiful Bora Bora, the "Romantic Isle." how could it not be our new fave?
On to the "Magical Island" of Moorea, where we finally headed inland. Our open-air four-wheel-drive truck carried us up for dramatic views, down lush valleys. The tour of a demonstration farm brought modern island life into focus; the visit to a venerable stone temple conjured images of ancient island life. Pausing in the midst of the caldera, we marveled at the famous peaks of "Bali Hai"--Moorea inspired author James Michener's mythical island and served as the locale for South Pacific and many other movies. As we slowly turned around, surveying the mountain ridge that once was the volcano's rim, soundless but for the birdsongs on the breeze, we felt the magic of Moorea, our favorite island.
The dream cruise came to an end the next morning hack in the "Gathering Place" of Tahiti. With many flights late that evening, debarkation is as laidback as the islands. Princess allows guests to stay in their cabins till 11 a.m., and on the ship all day, with bars and buffets open. While many relaxed onboard, waiting for their flights, others toured the island, and some even hopped the catamaran ferries to grab a little more Moorea, just a half-hour away (a lucky few transferred to resorts, extending their island stay).
We needed to explore more of Papeete, especially Le Marche, the municipal market and a must-see slice of Tahitian life. Here we filled our last-minute gift needs--coconut and vanilla products, shell and wood handicrafts, colorful pareus and camp shirts are all inexpensive and unique island souvenirs. We wandered the streets and parks, visited the museum and the cathedral, rode Le Truck and are poisson cru. All too soon it was sunset and time to bid adieu--or would it just be au revoir? Tahiti is morn than an island--it is a state of mind, and our favorite place to be.
Next time we'll add the Marquesas Islands to our collection--the Tahitian Princess heads there in lieu of the Cook Islands on an alternative 10-day itinerary. For the even more adventurous, the Pacific Princess sails wide-ranging voyages that have called all over the South Pacific--Samoa and Fiji. Christmas Island and Easter Island, even tiny Pitcairn Island, the remote atoll where the Bounty mutineers hid. Plan your South Seas sojourn with your travel agent, by logging on to www.princess.com, or by writing Princess Cruises (Cruise Travel Magazine), 24305 Town Center Dr., Santa Clarita, CA 91355.
COPYRIGHT 2004 World Publishing, Co. (Illinois)
COPYRIGHT 2004 Gale Group
