Travel America: Vicksburg: mansions and monuments shed light on Mississippi's colorful past

Vicksburg earned its place in American history during the summer of 1862 when a desperate struggle to control the city took place. The pivotal Civil War battle lasted 47 days, with the Union forces bombarding Vicksburg non-stop while Confederate troops fought back from caves dug into the hillsides of the town. Starved and exhausted, Confederate forces surrendered at last and on the morning of July 4, Ulysses S. Grant and his Union forces marched into Vicksburg, giving the North control of the Mississippi River.

Today you can relive the Civil War throughout the city. Begin your journey back in time at Vicksburg National Military Park. The park features monuments, reconstructed trenches and earthworks, a 16-mile tour road, an antebellum home, a restored Union gunboat, and Vicksburg National Cemetery. Civil War buffs will also want to visit other Vicksburg attractions like the Gray and Blue Naval Museum, with the world's largest collection of Civil War gunboat models, and The Vanishing Glory, a 30-minute film on the Siege of Vicksburg based on the diaries and letters of citizens and soldiers who were there.

History in Vicksburg isn't confined to museums and military parks, though. The past lives on in the city's antebellum mansions, many of which are open for tours or offer accommodations and fine dining. Cedar Grove Mansion and Inn, for example, is an 1840 Greek Revival masterpiece overlooking the Mississippi River on four acres. You can take a tour, dine at the elegant Andre's, and even stay overnight in the same room where Grant once slept.

Another home steeped in history is Balfour House, the 1835 Greek Revival mansion where a Christmas ball was interrupted by the arrival of the Union forces during the Civil War. There is a re-enactment of that event each December at the home. Other antebellum homes open for tours include McRaven, Anchuca, the Martha Vick House, and Duff Green Mansion. The city opens the doors to its historic homes even wider during the annual spring and fall pilgrimages and the Christmas season, when dozens of events are offered.

After exploring the antebellum homes of Vicksburg, search out treasures of your own at the antique shops downtown. The area also boasts coffeehouses, restaurants, and specialty shops, plus some delightful small museums. Nostalgia fans will love the Biedenharn Museum of Coca-Cola Memorabilia, where you can enjoy a real fountain Coke or an ice cream float, browse through displays, and select a souvenir from the gift shop. For a museum that brings out the kid in everyone, stop in Yesterday's Children Antique Doll and Toy Museum, with more than 1,000 dolls and toys dating from the 1880s to the present.

Speaking of the present, Vicksburg's appeal isn't confined to the distant past. After a day of historic homes and hallowed battlefields, you'll be ready for some nightlife at the city's casino resorts. At Ameristar Casino, Vicksburg's largest, you'll find 1,400 slot machines and 50 table games as well as the new Bottleneck's Blues Bar, where Delta blues music can be heard nightly. Or you might find that pot of gold at the blackjack, craps, or roulette tables at the Rainbow Casino. Be sure to enjoy the authentic Southern dishes served at the Rainbow Buffet and consider staying at the adjoining luxury hotel. You can also play and stay at the Isle of Capri Casino and Hotel and feast on peel-and-eat shrimp, crab legs, hand-carved roast beef, and sumptuous desserts at Calypso's Buffet.

Contact: Vicksburg Convention & Visitors Bureau, (601) 636-9421 or (800) 221-3536; www.vicksburgcvb.org.