Cruise Travel: MSC Lirica: MSC Cruises' value-priced Euro-chic vessel is quietly making waves in the

Onboard literature describes the MSC Lirica as a quiet ship, and if I had just a few words to sum her up, that would just about do. The first newbuild of MSC Cruises is a classy lady, christened in 2003 by another classy lady, her godmother Sophia Loren. The mid-size cruise liner offers a subdued and relaxing ocean voyage. No announcements, they tell you on the first day, and they mean it. Everything is outlined in the daily program (printed in five language editions), and passengers are simply trusted to show up on time. How refreshing to be treated like an adult, with none of the amplified cheer-leading that makes some ships feel like summer camp.

Quiet also describes the decor. Clean lines, soft colors, tasteful lighting. Nothing is overdone, also refreshing in this era of ships that seem to have been decorated by someone who has gone quite insane. And while no two public rooms are the same, there is a continuity of style throughout the ship, which I think works better than each room bombarding the senses with a new theme.

This sophisticated atmosphere probably stems from the international passenger mix, an eclectic gathering of middle-aged and older professionals from around the world. The passenger manifest on my sailing was about 50 percent American, with Germans, Italians, Britons, Spaniards, French, Canadians, Dutch, Swiss, Australians, Argentineans, and a spattering of other nationalities making up the remaining half.

Often, the MSC Lirica felt like an upscale boutique vessel, with the spaciousness to match. Though just 200 shy of the full double occupancy of 1,594 (2,065 counting all upper berths), the ship felt half-full. For example, the handsome Beverly Hills Bar, one of the main lounges, was notably underutilized. White-glove afternoon tea here rarely drew more than a dozen people (most opting for the topside alternative), and once I dropped in for some light jazz and found only the forlorn musicians in attendance. This was not reflective of the band's talents. but rather the fact there were other concerts going on in several other rooms.

In those rooms I found a generous use of hardwood, wicker, and marble--there is nothing like natural materials to give a room a good vibe. Chairs and wall panels are done in a microfiber material that simulates suede. Even the pool deck follows a motif of Euro-chic symmetry. There is plenty of bleached teak around the pool. and most other outer decks are covered in a rubber material patterned to resemble hardwood--not as nice as the real thing, but classier than astroturf.

And the deck chairs are the coolest I've seen yet, with little articulated roofs to provide shade over one's face.

Where did this restrained European cruising experience--and for that matter, MSC Cruises itself--come from? Though the line is currently a small player in the cruise industry, that's about to change. Its parent is the Italian-owned, Swiss-based Mediterranean Shipping Company, the world's second largest cargo line, with a fleet of more than 255 container ships trading around the globe. It has the deep pockets to finance a major and rapid cruise-line expansion that targets North America. Last summer MSC bought at auction the European Vision and European Stars of the insolvent Festival Cruises (which had been marketed in the U.S. as First European Cruises); they have been renamed MSC Armonia and MSC Sinfonia, respectively. Also the line has recently launched the MSC Opera, a sister to the MSC Lirica. What's more, MSC has placed an order for two 90,000-gross-register-ton new-builds with France's Alstom Chantiers de l'Atlantique shipyards at a ticket price in excess of a billion dollars, and has options on others. Prior to the MSC Lirica's arrival, the line used second-hand tonnage.

Though thoroughly modern, with today's common shoe-box profile and podded propulsion, the MSC Lirica is in many ways a throwback to the traditional cruise experience. I found this to be mostly endearing and occasionally frustrating.

Take dining, for instance. There are no alternatives to the main dining room for dinner. Remember when it used to be like that? On the MSC Lirica it still is, which is good or bad, depending on your point of view. Yes, you can get to know your wailer and make friends with your assigned tablemates, but I've come to like dining somewhere else at least occasionally, and found this fixed regime a bit much for 11 nights straight. (The fact that I had an indifferent waiter didn't help.) There are two main dining rooms, L'Ippocampo and La Bussola, each serving the same menu at two dinner seatings. They are very similar rooms with a mix of booths and tables. Room service is available 24 hours, but offers only light meals of salads and sandwiches.

At breakfast and lunch there is a choice of venue. High aft on deck 11, Le Bistrot is a nicely designed buffet restaurant with glass walls on three sides and twin food-service lines, port and starboard. Breakfast and lunch are also available with open seating in the dining rooms, but the food on offer was much the same, and I preferred the easy-going atmosphere of Le Bistrot. With sea-views, hardwood floors, real wicker chairs (there are those natural materials again), and the smiley service of an all-Balinese staff, it's a nice place to be. An afternoon tea buffet is laid out here as well.

Forward on the same deck, and open to the air, is La Pergola, striving for an Italian sidewalk-care feel with wicker chairs and teak tables. Simpler fare is grilled here, like hamburgers, fish burgers, and hot dogs at lunch time, plus afternoon pizza.

Areas where the MSC Lirica does not feel upmarket are food and cabin size. Breakfasts were fine, and lunches usually bountiful and good, but dinners disappointed. Red meats were acceptably good (nice lamb and decent steaks always done as asked), but fish and vegetables were consistently overcooked. Pastas were fine, but the bread was not always fresh. Desserts were abysmal, invariably a choice of ice cream or a sponge-and-cream cake such as you'd find in the freezer section of your supermarket. The flavor varied a little each evening, but it was always the same type of cake. Once, the waiter announced a "special dessert," tiramisu, and brought to the table another of these Sara Lee-type cakes with a scoop of ice cream and canned fruit on the side. That an Italian ship would try to pass this indifferent concoction off as tiramisu is shocking. (Near the end of the cruise, as if in response to complaints, the lunch buffet suddenly exploded with a whole new selection of desserts.)

The plenitude of public space aboard the MSC Lirica possibly comes at the expense of cabin size. Inside and outside doubles are just 150 square feet (the same size as on the Norwegian Sun, for instance)--well appointed, but hardly spacious, with twin beds convertible to queen-size, two nightstands, a corner desk and chair, ample closet space with drawers, and a typical bathroom with shower and large vanity. A big corner-mounted mirror cleverly hides a safe and more shelving, which I found ideal for stuffing odds and ends out of sight to keep the room looking uncluttered. Only 132 of the cabins feature balconies (237 sq. ft. including balcony), and oddly, there are no suites. (The new MSC Opera offers 200 balcony cabins.)

The ship's unassuming elegance greets passengers immediately upon boarding, with a spacious and well designed lobby and reception on deck 5, staffed by exceedingly pleasant young ladies. A marble staircase ascends to an upper level occupied by a chic coffee shop and bar. There is no atrium with "scenic" elevators. I give MSC extra points for eschewing this architectural cliche, which was popular in Hyatt-type hotels in the mod '70s, but is now out of fashion except, curiously, on cruise ships.

Aft of the lobby is the aforementioned Beverly Hills Bar, actually a large lounge with sweeping banquette seating and a central dance floor. And aft of that room is the burgundy-and-peach decorated La Bussola restaurant. Forward of the lobby is the spacious and homey Lord Nelson Pub, a nod to the ship's British passengers, who are more in evidence on the Mediterranean voyages. Fire regulations inhibit the extensive use of wood on ships, but the dark mahogany imitation here is warmly convincing.

Two staircases ascend from the pub directly into the seating area of the Broadway Theatre, on deck 6, making the Lord Nelson a handy meeting place for pre-show drinks. I thought the showroom was splendid for its simplicity, wide and shallow on just one level so that no one sits far from the stage. No pillars block the view. With its arcs of comfy red seats, it looks like the classic cinemas of yore, before the age of the multiplex, and indeed, movies are shown here in the afternoons (usually filmed operas, surprisingly well attended).

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The night-time shows, however, weren't as classy as the venue, with a heavy reliance on second-rate magicians and sophomoric skits. This is pretty standard on cruise ships, in my experience. The bands and combos playing in the lounges, by contrast, were very good--not surprisingly, music theme cruises are frequently offered.

Moving aft from the theater, you'll find most of the other public rooms, where several live music performers provided excellent entertainment options. Passing through the Coffee Corner you come to Le Cabaret, a cozy dance bar with lively international music, from jazz to merengue. Next is the Las Vegas Casino, oddly named since it more resembles a Monaco casino than the Nevada variety, and is rather small, since gaming is less popular with Europeans than it is with Americans.

The intimate L'Atmosphere piano bar offers easy-listening tunes or classical/ chamber-music concerts. The port side leads into the Cyber Cafe, while the starboard side branches into the photo gallery. All of that is L'Ippocampo restaurant.

Another key room, the Lirica Lounge, is forward on deck 7, the only public room on this level. Here ballroom dancing is often featured, as well as fun audience-participation shows led by the linguistically talented cruise director Francesco Cimmino, who keeps everyone informed with a blistering stream of English, Italian, German, French, and Spanish.

Although quiet and laid-back best describes a MSC Lirica cruise, that's not to say there isn't raucous fun for those who want it. The ship employs a dedicated team of young social catalysts called The Animation Team, whose job it is to ensure everyone finds some fun moments onboard. They get passengers onto the dance floor, lead poolside games and exercise classes, perform onstage, and continue their social activism late into the night in the super-cool Blue Club disco, high up and aft on deck 12.

There is a supervised children's playroom, I Pirati, forward of the lido pool area. A virtual-reality arcade for older kids is near the disco. But generally the MSC Lirica is not a ship for families (the few teens onboard seemed bored).

The gym, also forward of the lido, is one of the best I've seen at sea. Its attendant spa sports such unique features as Turkish-style steam rooms and a "relaxation room" where passengers can recline on wicker lounges to the piped-in sound of birdsong.

I overheard some American passengers say the ship was too quiet, some even complaining about a lack of loud music around the pool. Yet this is appreciated by others, including myself--it's a matter of taste, and underlines the importance of choosing the ship that's right for you.

From December to May, the MSC Lirica operates two alternating 11-night cruises from Ft. Lauderdale, which I think are two of the best Caribbean itineraries available, visiting some of the more unspoiled destinations in the area. In the summer months she plies the Mediterranean. The MSC Lirica is learning to make some adjustments to cater to the tastes of the U.S. cruise market during her Caribbean schedule, but she will likely remain different from the popular leviathans regularly sailing out of Florida. She's an ideal choice for those who would appreciate value-priced Euro-chic, a ship that does not try to overwhelm the experience of being at sea or the places she visits.

M/S MSC LIRICA FACTS & FIGURES

Company: MSC Italian Cruises.

Built: 2003, Chantiers de l'Atlantique shipyard, St. Nazaire, France.

Country Of Registry: Panama.

Gross Registered Tonnage: 58,600.

Length: 763 feet. Beam: 84 feet.

Draft: 21.65 feet. Speed: 21 knots.

Propulsion: 4 x 7920 KW electric diesel, 2 x 20,000 KW azimuthing pods.

Passenger Capacity: 1,594 (double occupancy), 2,065 (maximum).

Passenger Space Ratio: 36.8.

Normal Crew Size: 760.

Nationality Of Crew: Italian officers, international deck and engine crew, Italian and Eastern European waiters, international bus-persons and other hotel staff.

Cabins: 797 cabins on five decks; 272 standard inside (150 square feet), 387 standard outside (150 sq. ft.), 132 balcony cabins (237 sq. ft.), 2 outside family cabins (258 sq. ft.), 4 inside handicapped cabins (215 sq. ft.). Each stateroom has twin beds that convert to queen-size, satellite TV, telephone, refrigerator, safe, 110V and 220V electric outlets, hair-dryer, private facilities with shower, 24-room service. Some cabins have folding upper berths for triple or quad occupancy.

Restaurants/Cafes: La Bussola (one of two main dining rooms, seats 604); L'Ippocampo (second main dining room, seats 318); La Pergola (outdoor restaurant for breakfast and lunch only, seats 300); Le Bistrot (buffet restaurant for breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea, seats 292); Coffee Corner (special coffees and morning pastries, seats 50). Special diets are available with advance notice.

Lounges/Bars/Other Public Areas: The Broadway Theatre (main showroom and cinema, seats 786): Blue Club (disco, 345); L'Atmosphere (easy listening music and dancing, 99); Le Cabaret (dance lounge, 146); Lord Nelson Pub (English-style pub, 168); Beverly Hills Bar (dancing and concert lounge, 314); Lirica Lounge (secondary showroom and dance lounge, 396); Library/Card Room (25); Cyber Care (14 stations with internet access at $6.32 for the first 10 minutes and 58 cents per additional minute); Las Vegas Casino (roulette, craps, blackjack, video poker, slot machines); Lirica Health Center & La Terme Spa (beauty parlor, steam rooms, saunas, massage, relaxation room, gymnasium with aerobics, 3 exer-cycles, 3 treadmills, 1 stair-climber, dumbbells, and a wide range of Technogym muscle-training machines); Virtual Reality Room (8 game machines); I Pirati (supervised children's room), La Canzone Del Mar (pool bar); ice cream bar.

Facilities/Features: Fully air-conditioned with individual controls in each room; stabilized; nine passenger decks; nine passenger elevators; Le Piscine pool area with two large pools (with deep and shallow areas) and two hot tubs; jogging/walking track; mini-putt golf; glass-sheltered tanning solarium; Rodeo Drive Shopping Arcade with logo shop, cosmetics booth, clothing shop, jewelry store, liquor shop (not for consumption onboard); laundry and dry-cleaning service, but no self-serve; three formal evenings on 11-night cruises; smoking in designated areas (no smoking in dining rooms); spa services (Balinese massage, sports massage, shiatsu, lymphatic body massage, reflexology, facials and local area massages, exfoliating, electro-stimulator, manicure and pedicure, waxing, mud mask, complete hair care); medical center; currency exchange; safe-deposit boxes; tour desk; information desk with multilingual hostesses.

Money Matters: All shipboard expenses are charged to the passenger account established on boarding. Payment by major credit card, or pro-deposit amount using traveler's checks or cash (U.S. dollars preferred). Tips cannot be added to shipboard account; recommended gratuities are $5 to $7 per-person/per-day for dining-room service (shared by waiter and bus-person) and $5 to $7 per-person/per-day for cabin attendants; a 15 percent gratuity is added to bar service bills. The following are extra-cost items: alcoholic beverages, soft drinks, quality fruit juices, special coffees in the Coffee Corner, spa treatments, steam room, laundry, photographs by shipboard photographers, casino, ship-to-shore telephone, e-mail, internet and faxing, shore excursions, government taxes and fees.

Itineraries/Fares: The MSC Lirica returns to North America with a 17-night trans-Atlantic New Year's crossing, departing Genoa, Italy, December 27, and calling in Malaga, Funchal, Grenada, St. Lucia, Antigua, Tortola, and Nassau, ending in Fort Lauderdale; per-person/double-occupancy rates range from $2,500 to $4,280 (single rates: inside $3,500/outside $4,130). She then sails 11-night roundtrip voyages from Port Everglades on two alternating itineraries. The "Deep Caribbean" eastern route (departures Jan. 24, Feb. 15, Mar. 9 & 31) calls in San Juan, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Grenada, Antigua, Tortola, and Nassau; double rates $1,800-$3,300, single $2,520/$3,150. The "Panama Canal" western route (departures Jan. 13, Feb. 4 & 26, Mar. 20, Apr. 11) visits Costa Maya (Roatan Island on Apr. 11 cruise), Puerto Limon, Panama Canal (partial transit to Gatun Lake and back), San Bias Is., Cartagena, and Ocho Rios; double rates $1,900-$3,400, single $2,660/$3,290. On Apr. 22 a 10-night "Deep Caribbean" calls at San Juan, Barbados, Antigua, St. Maarten, and Nassau; double rates $1,700-$3,200, single $2,380/$3,010. She returns to the Mediterranean with a 17-night trans-Atlantic, departing Fort Lauderdale May 2 and calling at San Juan, St. Thomas, St. Lucia, Martinique, Barbados, Funchal, Malaga, and Barcelona, ending in Genoa; double rates $2,300-$4,080, single $3,220/ $3,850. There are early-booking discounts and special rates for third/fourth adults and children sharing a cabin.

For more information: Contact your travel agent or MSC Cruises USA (Cruise Travel Magazine), 6700 N. Andrews Ave., Fort Lauderdale FL 33309; call 800-666-9333; or log on to www.msccruises.com.