Trailer Life: ARIZONA'S West Coast

From Bullhead City to Yuma, the Colorado River lures RVers to its shores, sites and scenery

BACK IN THE EARLY 1900s, COWBOY JACK FUSS described the 1,200-mile-long Colorado River that forms Arizona's western boundary: "The Colorado River didn't have a dam on it then and it was as wild as a roaring tiger. It was so full of silt that if you fell in, your clothes would fill up and sink you."

Not so today, for now the waters, on their way to Mexico, have been tamed by large monolithic dams creating beaches, coves and lakes. The dams provide boating, fishing and other watersports - plus wildlife viewing and tranquility for travelers - in addition to supplying hydroelectric power, drinking water and irrigation to the masses.

The Colorado, starting as a mountain rill 10,000 feet up in the Colorado Rockies and ending as a mere trickle of water on the saltpans of Mexico, would be our companion on our journey from Bullhead City south to Yuma.

Davis Campground, just north of Bullhead City below Davis Dam, made a good homebase for our exploration down river. From our spot on the river we could look across to the glitzy Laughlin, Nevada, high-rise gambling casinos that dominate the skyline.

Bullhead City was born a 1940s construction town for the $77-million-dollar Davis Dam project. The towns name originates from a nearby rock formation shaped like a sleeping bulls head. Unfortunately, the rising waters of Lake Mohave behind the dam rose, and the bull was drowned.

As Lake Mohave backed up behind Davis Dam, fishermen and watersports enthusiasts were attracted to this desert canyon landscape. The 67-mile long lake is part of Lake Mead National Recreation Area.

Down the road two miles lies Katherine Landing. The mining camp offers a resort marina with docks, a store, a restaurant, a motel and campgrounds. RVers will discover a variety of waterfowl here and should have their binoculars ready; ours were upraised more than once searching for great blue herons and snowy egrets. Ospreys, hawks, cactus wrens, cardinals and the ever-present roadrunner add to the bird-watching checklist.

Before heading south down the bitumen we made a stop at the Colorado River Museum. Opened in 1992, the region s history of ranching, mining and transportation is told through displays, artifacts and memorabilia.

South of Bullhead City, we chose to take Scenic Route 1 to Topock, passing alongside Topock Marsh, with its network of bays bordered by cattails and bullrush. Only 70 miles separate Bullhead City and Lake Havasu City, yet in this region travelers will encounter three of the four desert ecosystems: the Mojave, the Great Basin and the Sonoran. Their quiet and stark beauty provides a terrific backdrop for the Colorado River.

At London Bridge in Lake Havasu, we met up with our river companion once again. The reconstructed London Bridge, one of the worlds largest antiques, is the centerpiece for the city. It's the original bridge that once spanned the River Thames in London from the 183Os to 1968. Strolling through the nearby quaint English Village, complete with British flags flying, reminds visitors of the bridges unique bygone era.

Along the scenic shoreline, Lake Havasu State Park makes a good spot from which to explore the local area. The 45-mile-long lake, formed by Parker Dam, affords a playground for water enthusiasts. Water buffs also frequent the city's indoor Aquatic Center, with its olympic-size swimming pool.

Numerous cattails give Cattail Cove State Park, 15 miles south, its name. The park affords a tranquil setting to lounge around, relax and get away from it all.

Continuing 23 miles south of Lake Havasu City, we visited the Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge, where the Bill Williams River and the southern end of Lake Havasu meet. For some leg stretching, start at the refuge headquarters and walk the new 1,500-foot sidewalk for an exceptional view of the lake and Sonoran desert scenery. It also provides access to two fishing piers.

The Sonoran is a unique blend of marsh, upland desert and riparian habitats. Its home to more than 300 bird species, along with raccoon, beaver, bobcat, gray fox, mountain lion, javelina, desert bighorn sheep, mule deer and ring-tailed cat.

Parker Dam is deceptive; it doesn't look as though its the deepest dam in the world, but that's because 73 percent of its structural height of 320 feet is below the original riverbed. Built between 1934 and 1938, it forms 45-milelong Lake Havasu, home to black and striped bass, bluegill, catfish, crappie and trout.

Off U.S. 95,11 mues north of Parker, we came across Buckskin Mountain State Park, a favorite oasis in the desert, nestled in a rocky canyon beside the Colorado River. The area supports hiking, swimming, boating and fishing.

Before reaching Parker, the rocky, dry terrain of the desert gives way to lush green grass - the Emerald Canyon Golf Course stands out like a rich jewel in stunning desert surroundings.

Soon you'll discover the 16-mile-long Parker strip that fronts the river and takes in the town of Parker. The region has become a top-notch water destination, attracting more than a million visitors each year.

Parker was carved out of the Colorado River Indian Reservation in 1908 by the Arizona and California Railroad; the community has become a supply, services and housing center for the surrounding Native American communities.

The Colorado River Indian Tribes Museum and Library, two miles south via U.S. 95, caught our eye. The museum contains the largest collection of Chemehuevi baskets in the world, along with examples of Mohave pottery, Navajo silver-smithed jewelry, Hopi kachina dolls and other artifacts. The four cultures are preserved in the museum. There's also a crafts and jewelry shop.

A strong westerly wind was blowing as we headed south down State Route 95 towards Quartzsite, some 33 miles distant. Trailers and motorhomes began to dot the desert, increasing in number as we approached the small western settlement. RV facilities are well-established north and south of town, and it's estimated that during the winter season more than 75,000 RVs reside in the desert and town, many on BLM land requiring self-contained units.

Quartzsite residents number about 2,000, but during January and February, hundreds of thousands of visitors arrive, partly attracted by the many gem and mineral shows. Thousands of vendors hit the town with pop-up tents, cash boxes, folding chairs and tables and infinite wares to sell - everything from RV bathroom kits, carved signs and gourds, to antlers, puppets and musical hula hoops. As they say: Ready! Set! Shop!

Near the town's center you'll see a small stone pyramid topped by a metal camel. This memorial honors Hadji AIi, nicknamed Hi Jolly by early pioneers and soldiers. This Syrian camel driver came here in 1856 to help the Army test the use of camels in the Southwestern deserts. The experiment failed. The camels adapted well to their habitat, but the sight of them caused the horses, mules and cattle to stampede.

We continued on to Yuma, Arizona's third-largest metropolitan area, and one of the driest and sunniest. Pleasant winter temperatures act as a magnet to countless RVers. Lying at the confluence of Arizona's two longest rivers, the Colorado and the GiIa, Yuma has a long history of human settlement.

The town was built where the Colorado River narrows. Yuma Crossing is the easiest place to cross the river for hundreds of miles, and is also the gateway to California. Spanish explorers, early pioneers, the California Gold Rush of 1849 and the coming of the railroad in 1877 saw Yuma grow into a major agricultural and transportation center.

Our first stop was the legendary Yuma Territorial Prison State Park. Standing fortress-like on a bluff overlooking the Colorado, the prison housed more than 3,000 men and 29 women between 1876 and its closure in 1909. Wandering around through the thick rock-darkened cells with their large iron-grilled doors emphasized the awful, lonely feeling of incarceration. Books, movies and television created the prisons notoriety and today, with its guard tower and displays on prison life, it is the most visited state historic park in Arizona.

The new Yuma Crossing State Historic Park, near the territorial prison, preserves the city's early history from the time of the Spanish explorers to the 20th century. We walked around the 20-acre site, taking in the U.S. Army Quartermaster Depot that predated the prison by a decade or more. Supplies were stored and distributed throughout the southwest from here. A museum and a guided tour gave us a better idea of this long-ago hub of southwestern Arizona.

If you're feeling hungry after your touring, pop into Lutes Casino (no gambling), apopular hamburger joint on Main Street. It started as a grocery store in 1901 and is the oldest continuously active pool hall and domino parlor in the state. It's the memorabilia covering the walls and ceiling, however, that drew our attention: a life-size telephone lineman, a human skeleton, a gigantic fire hydrant, an upside-down deer head, old photos, a large model helicopter and more are quite intriguing.

Across the river on Indian Hill, site of Fort Yuma, stands St. Thomas Church, a favorite photo spot to capture the surrounding landscape. A statue of Father Francisco Garces, a missionary of the 170Os and friend of the Yuma Indians, reposes before the church.

Also on Indian Hill is the Fort Yuma museum, built in the 185Os and operated by the Quechan tribe. Displays include a variety of photographs and historical artifacts. Fort Yuma's main purpose was to protect the settlers, bordersurvey crews and gold miners on their way to California.

From our perch on the hilltop, we looked out over an agricultural wonderland. The Colorado River lay below. It was in 1858 that lieutenant Joseph C. Ives considered the stretch of river that he explored from Yuma to Hoover Dam as "valueless." We wondered what he would say if he saw it today.

Arizona Office of Tourism, (866) 298-331 2, arizonaguide.com. Circle 237 on Reader Service Card.