We stood on the forward Sun Deck of Imperial Majesty Cruise Line's Regal Empress as she departed Ft. Lauderdale on a late December afternoon. Her unique stature as the last vintage passenger vessel in U.S.-based service became all the more apparent as a series of squared-off megaships maneuvered past with azimuth- and thruster-enhanced agility, reflecting the pinkish sunset in their endless acres of glass balcony paneling. Above us, the gracefully sweptback arc of the Regal Empress's open bridge wing was abuzz with navigation officers exchanging commands with an assisting tug.
A short walk aft along a fully encircling teak deck under a canopy of traditional lifeboats found us on a terrace overlooking the rounded stern. The pool and adjacent lido were lined with passengers enjoying the sailaway festivities, which included horse-racing and steel-band music. With a faint stream of diesel exhaust flowing from her finned funnel, the Regal Empress picked up speed as she entered the channel. On her portside, landlubbers lined the balconies of some of Ft. Lauderdale's most expensive condominium towers, saluting us with improvised horns and flashing lights. Moments later, our former ocean liner was gently rolling in the balmy Atlantic, her native waters for more than 50 years, setting a course for Nassau.
In 1953 the General Steam Navigation Company (also known as Greek Line) introduced its 23,800-gross-register-ton/21-knot steamship Olympia. Built on Scotland's River Clyde by Alexander Stephen and Company, she was designed to carry 138 first-class and 1,169 tourist-class passengers between Germany and New York. By all accounts, the new Greek flagship was a handsome vessel with a sharply raked, knuckled bow, trendy tripod radio mast, cone-shaped funnel, and classic cruiser stern.
The Olympia was transferred to the Mediterranean run from New York in 1955. She was converted into a full-time cruise ship in 1970. When the fuel crisis in 1974 bankrupted Greek Line, she was nearly finished off as she was laid up near Piraeus. In 1981 the still very solid Olympia was purchased by Effjohn and converted into the 904-passenger cruise ship Caribe (later Caribe I) for its Commodore Cruise Line division. Her fuel-hungry turbines were replaced with more efficient Deutz diesels, and her public rooms and accommodations were refitted. The Caribe I became a fixture in Miami-based, seven-night Caribbean cruise service. In 1993 she was sold to newly formed Regal Cruises and renamed Regal Empress. In 1997 she was brought into compliance with new SOLAS (Safety Of Life At Sea) international ship regulations during a refit that saw the addition of balconies to her Promenade Deck suites and the installation of a new lido cafe (La Trattoria) and internet center.
In 2003 the Regal Empress was bought by Imperial Majesty Cruise Line as a replacement for its popular OceanBreeze on year-round two-night cruises from Ft. Lauderdale to Nassau. The Regal Empress has a healthy repeat passenger factor due to her high-value-for-the-fare service, food, and entertainment. Those who have never sampled cruising can enjoy a slice of life at sea, all for about what it would cost to stay two nights in a Ft. Lauderdale hotel. Many of the basic activities one would find on the large cruise ships (rock-climbing, ice-skating, and exotic spas aside) can be experienced in an informal way with Imperial Majesty.
The Regal Empress's labyrinthine passageways and broken-up layout may confound people used to today's cookie-cutter ships, but those who survey their surroundings are in for a special treat. There are etched-glass panels, solid-brass and nickel fixtures, and painstakingly executed marquetry--all hand-fitted by artisans whose skills vanished with the advent of the jumbo jet.
The maple-paneled Caribbean Dining Room--with its Art Deco-style sconces, mirrored panels of oceanic fantasies (featuring whimsical mermaids, galleons, and octopi), and evocative oil paintings of Europe and New York--provides a stunning backdrop for a first-rate culinary experience. The Library (which can be secured for use as a conference room by the group department at booking time) is a throwback to Edwardian times with its dark-walnut bookcases and elaborate cornice work. Look closely and you will find four Greek Line "crowns" carved into the paneling. The Commodore Club, originally Olympia's Aegean Club, sports sunken burl-paneled alcoves overlooking Sun Deck. From these intimate nooks (framed by Art Deco-style brass balustrades), a cocktail and lively conversation can be enjoyed before or after dinner, much as it was 50 years ago.
Other appealing physical features of the Regal Empress include a special terrace for cigar smoking, a glass-enclosed promenade, sheltered sunning space on aft Sports Deck, and a covered, wooden horseshoe-shaped bar adjacent to the pool on aft Promenade Deck. The popular 175-seat Mermaid Bar adjoins the Commodore Club, and features a glass ceiling and tinted glass-brick motif. There is an Internet Cafe plus a Coffee Bar, dedicated Children's Room, and a small Card Room on Promenade Deck.
Dining preferences are assigned at embarkation, which includes processing of a shipboard photo ID card that is scanned when entering or leaving the vessel. This card is also used as for all onboard purchases, drinks, and tips (automatically posted at a daily rate of $3.50 for waiter and cabin steward, $1.75 for busboy, and $1 for maitre d'). A bill is submitted early on the last morning and charged automatically to the passenger's credit card.
Main-seating dinner is at 6 p.m. and late-seating is at 8:30 p.m. in the Caribbean Dining Room. The meal is a five-course affair with several selections of appetizer, two soups, various salads, a main entree, and dessert. Our catch-of-the-day, tilapia in lemon butter sauce, was particularly delicious. On the second day, open-seating breakfast is served between 7:30 and 9:30 a.m. and open-seating lunch from noon until 1:30 p.m. On the final morning, open-seating breakfast is served between 6:30 and 7:45 a.m. La Trattoria offers a welcome onboard buffet between 1 and 3:30 p.m., and the second day serves buffet-style breakfast from 7-10 a.m., tea (including cakes and finger sandwiches) from 4-5 p.m., and Italian or Latin Fiesta buffet from midnight to 1 a.m. Coffee and tea are available around-the-clock in this lido cafe, which also serves a continental breakfast between 6:30 and 9 a.m. prior to debarking.
The Regal Empress's friendly staff is multinational, with a large contingent from the Philippines and Eastern Europe. The classically trained Imperial Revue Team put on two Vegas-styled shows each night in the Grand Lounge--arrive early to ensure the best seating. Other evening entertainment options include the Regal Empress Trio, which performs under the stars on aft Promenade Deck, and a pianist in the Mermaid Lounge, followed by karaoke. The first night features a '50s/'60s sock-hop poolside, plus a Singles Party in the Mirage Disco, which stays open until dawn both nights. There are multiple bingo opportunities throughout the cruise in addition to gaming in the expansive Monte Carlo Casino, which offers blackjack and banks of slots.
A wide array of shore excursions for Nassau (Blue Lagoon Island Tour, Glass Bottom Boat Trips, Limousine City Tours, Snorkeling, etc.) as well as helpful port and shopping information are offered during the Welcome On Board orientation and slide program the afternoon of embarkation day. Those not wishing to take an excursion can walk into Nassau with its adjacent shopping arcade and nearby hotels. Or, better yet, savor a day spent on the ship to fully enjoy the facilities and abundant Old World charm.
Dress onboard is resort casual and slightly more upscale on the second night, when a captain's cocktail reception is held. The dining room and show lounge are nonsmoking, but smoking is allowed in certain public areas, ondeck, and in cabins.
Accommodations range from the gloriously paneled, wedge-shaped Admiral's Suites (carved out of the former tourist-class card and drawing rooms and offering separate bedrooms and sitting areas) to inside cabins with upper/lower berths. Several balconied suites (some with private Jacuzzis) are available on forward Promenade Deck. Many of the Sun Deck cabins retain portions of their original first-class wood paneling and furniture. A wide range of outside and inside cabins (mostly modernized during various refits) span the remainder of Promenade through B decks. Brochure rates begin at $179 per-person/double-occupancy for off-season inside upper/lowers to $499 for Admiral Suites in peak season. Third and fourth person rates are $149; children ages 3-12 are $119; and under 3 are $89.
