Cruise Travel: MSC cruises: rapidly rising European line makes waves in North American waters

Half-a-millennium after Columbus's venture into the West Indies, another Italian enterprise has discovered the lucrative Caribbean trade. Naples-based MSC Crociere, a major operator in the European market, is eyeing North America in a big way, now that it has a fleet of cruise liners attracting attention--a fleet that has grown from a trio of secondhand ships in 2002 to a flotilla of seven with four new vessels and two more on the horizon. For passengers seeking Old World ambiance on new cruise liners, your ship has come in.

Mediterranean Shipping Company, the line's parent, dug deep into its pockets for a $3-billion investment in new hardware for its cruise division. Founded in 1970 by Captain Gianluigi Aponte (now company chairman), MSC has grown into the world's second-largest container carrier with some 270 vessels around the globe. The private, family-owned firm expanded into the cruise business in 1990, establishing a presence in the Mediterranean and building a loyal following, especially among Italians. (Aponte's son-in-law Pierfrancesco Vago currently heads the cruise division, ably aided by his wife Alexa Aponte Vago on the brand development and marketing ends.) But MSC Crociere's forays into the Caribbean weren't making waves, as the company could not seem to connect with the American cruiser.

In order to get that right, MSC went out and got the right man--Richard Sasso. A successful and well-respected cruise-industry veteran of more than 30 years, Sasso was part of the management team when Chandris (a venerable, family-owned Greek line) launched Celebrity Cruises. He served as Celebrity president from 1995 to 2001, while the line introduced a half-dozen new ships and rapidly rose to the top of the premium market. In April 2004 Sasso was named president and CEO of MSC Cruises USA, the newly created North American sales and marketing agent of MSC Crociere. By December, Sasso had melded key members from his old Celebrity team with existing MSC North American personnel in new Fort Lauderdale offices, and was welcoming MSC Cruises' two newest Euro-chic ships to Florida for a winter season of innovative Caribbean cruising.

"It's an exciting time for MSC Cruises," says Sasso. "With a cruise experience that truly reflects the heart and soul of Italy, we are well on our way to establishing a strong position in the North American market." Distinguishing itself as "Premium Class, With A True Italian Signature," MSC Cruises aims to bring back the "art of cruising" through the personality and spirit of its ships and crew, where the emphasis is on the cruising experience with a high level of service and hospitality--and "tipping is not required."

The MSC Opera, the line's new 1,756-passenger flagship, arrived in Florida amid great gala, including a warm welcome by the ship's godmother, Italian film icon Sophia Loren--who also serves as godmother for the 1,590-passenger MSC Lirica (Ship of the Month, Cruise Travel, December 2004). Together the ships embarked on a season of roundtrip cruises from Fort Lauderdale: the MSC Opera on weeklong alternating Eastern and Western Caribbean voyages; the MSC Lirica on l 1-night alternating "Deep Caribbean" itineraries (including a half-dozen Eastern Caribbean calls) and Panama Canal cruises (including a partial transit to Gatun Lake and calls in Central and South America).

"I'm over the top, really," bubbles Sasso about the success of this season's Caribbean program. "Both ships sailed at 100 percent occupancy, and passengers are raving about the the Italian style, service, and personality onboard. We've exceeded the benchmarks that we pride ourselves on." The line hit its goal of attracting 85 percent North Americans to the Caribbean program. "Both ships will be back next year," adds Sasso, and look for the addition of a private-island call to the seven-day sailings and expanded theme cruises--plus, in the fall of 2006, the Caribbean debut of the new 2,550-passenger MSC Musica. Right now, Sasso is hoping this year's Caribbean success helps MSC reach its goal of 20 percent North American passengers in Europe this summer.

From a warm welcome to a fond farewell, a European cruise experience awaits guests aboard MSC. The line's newest and finest ships, MSC Opera and MSC Lirica, are near sisters, but not cookie-cutter Caribbean cruisers. Their gleaming white profiles are somewhat boxy, but prettier than most, with sleek, well-proportioned stacks. Public areas are large, spacious, varied, comfortable--and comforting. Decor is pleasant, with clean lines and Italian influences (under the guiding hand of Rafaela Aponte, the chairman's wife); colors range from soft to bold, but are never garish. Public rooms differ in their vocabulary--contemporary touches here, Art Deco quotes there--but with a continuity of style throughout. Real wood and marble are used, and the quality of construction shows in the fit and finish. (And the crews' pride in their ships shines through the careful and thorough maintenance.)

The pleasant decor extends to the cabins, which are well designed--with ample storage space and compact bathrooms--but smaller that most. The 132 balconied cabins on the MSC Lirica (and 28 similar ones on the MSC Opera) that are designated suites measure some 240-275 square feet, including balcony, and offer bathtubs and a generous sitting area; but these "suites" are similar in size to deluxe balconied cabins offered in abundance on megaliners cruising the Caribbean. The MSC Opera design added 172 balconied cabins in the 190-sq.-ft. range. Standard outsides (387/Lirica, 487-Opera) and insides (276/Lirica, 186/Opera) measure 150 sq. ft. Each stateroom has twin beds convertible to queen-size, satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar/fridge, thermostat, safe, hair-dryer, shower, 110-V AC shaver outlet, 24-hour room service--and gracious steward service. (Four MSC Lirica cabins and five MSC Opera cabins have been specially adapted for handicapped passengers.)

But if ever there were ships to prove the adage "You don't spend much time in your cabin anyway," it's the MSC fleet: There's a global village just outside your door. On my Mediterranean cruise aboard the MSC Opera, Italians were a plurality, but there were also large contingents of Spanish, French, Germans, and British, a fair number of Americans, Japanese, and Australians, and a smattering of others from Africa, South America, and elsewhere. Daily programs were published in a half-dozen languages, and expected to be used, since the public address system was pleasingly silent. Music seemed the universal language, as joyous tunes could be heard throughout, everything from pop to opera, mostly in live performance. Not that quiet hideaways couldn't be found ondeck and indoors--such as Byblos Disco, a high-tech/high-energy dance club at night, but a bright, restful observation lounge by day, offering high-up views over the stern.

Active types appreciate the full-service, European-style spa and gym forward, and the mini-golf course around the stack. The more sedentary sort find indoor action in the casino, internet center, library, card room, coffee shop, bars, and the boutiques--where Mrs. Aponte again shows her hand in a stylish, unique collection. There are ample open decks for sunbathers and shade-seekers, with space left over for the ship's Animation Team to engage bambinos from around the world in fun and games. Later, these tireless cruise staffers would prove equally adept at luring shy adults into learning to dance the tango. Evening entertainment in the spacious, well-designed show-lounge presents different challenges. The multilingual cruise director was amazing, easily segueing between tongues in the introductions. Shows may lack the spectacle of the big-line productions, but I found their freshness and originality a treat. The contortionist/acrobats were Cirque du Soleil-worthy, and the juggler/mime/magician/comedian was a one-man Blue Man Group.

In the Caribbean, the international lineup of shows adds a Vegas revue to the French-, Spanish-, and Italian-themed evenings. Music theme cruises abound, and American guests are further catered to by theme sailings such as baseball and a foreign-policy lecture series featuring former U.S. ambassadors. MSC carries its own staff of international ambassadors--designated hosts for each language that help solve passenger problems. My favorite international incident: an awkward, broken-German exchange between myself and an Australian, each assuming the other to be German; once we settled on the King's English, friendship ensued. But language proved no barrier to my enjoying a dining table with an Italian family in Barcelona, or joining the French bus on a tour in Tunis.

Onboard dining is another international affair, albeit with a strong Italian influence. I sampled the open-seating dining rooms for breakfast and lunch, but more often chose the lido buffet, supplemented by a grill that also produced tasty, Neapolitan-style pizza. Dinner is in two, fixed seatings, and it's somehow quaint (and retro) to be welcomed by name by your regular servers who know your preferences. "Still water for signora, gassy for signor?" asks Emiliano, knowing full well the answer.

Menus have also been revamped to better appeal to American palates, but with a "True Italian Signature." Prior to the Caribbean season, MSC took over the catering operation, bringing it in-house. To ensure freshness and add variety, a Florida warehouse was set up and local suppliers contracted. "While we still have many products imported from Italy, this assures the finest quality of fresh products for both sides of the Atlantic," says Robert Keesler, vice president, hotel & marine operations for MSC Cruises USA.

"We pride ourselves on our authentic Italian cuisine," adds president Sasso. "Guests can sample traditional family recipes from La Cucina Italiana or savor delights from around the world" off the new menu of international dishes, all-American favorites, and regional Italian specialties. Freshly made pasta and risotto items are served for both lunch and dinner--the latter includes a "bread of the day" on the seven-course menu that always features an Italian dish such as lamb and mushroom quiche Aretina from the Toscana region or veal scaloppini Sorrento-style from the Campania region. Traditional fare--like broiled chicken breast, grilled sirloin steak, pan-roasted salmon fillet, and Caesar salad--is always available in addition to the listed menu items, which include "Healthy Choice" and vegetarian selections.

A wide choice of MSC ships is also offered to Mediterranean cruisers. Some of the line's recent growth came from an unexpected source, as two new ships became available when Festival Cruises (marketed in the U.S. as First European Cruises) went out of business. MSC purchased the defunct line's two, new 1,566-passenger ships (virtually sisters to the MSC Lirica), refit/refurbished them to MSC standards and style, and introduced the MSC Armonia in July 2004 and the MSC Sinfonia in March 2005. (The names "sounded" odd to me when I first read them, until I heard them pronounced with a lyrical Italian-accented emphasis: Sin-foh-NEE-ah, Ar-moh-NEE-ah.) This summer the MSC Armonia joins the MSC Opera for Adriatic/Greece/Turkey weekly roundtrips from Venice, on slightly different itineraries; while the MSC Sinfonia joins the MSC Lirica on slightly different Western Mediterranean weeklong cruises to ports in Italy, Sicily, Tunisia, Spain, and France--the former roundtrip from Genoa, the latter roundtrip from Rome.

Then there are the three vintage MSC vessels, classics familiar to veteran American cruisers. Ship buffs love the 576-passenger MSC Monterey--the oldest U.S.-built cruise liner still in service, dating back to the 1950s and Matson Line. Her trans-oceanic profile is old fashioned, but she has been lovingly maintained/updated by MSC. She sails four intriguing Med itineraries, 11-night roundtrips from Genoa that stretch from Egypt to the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean and Ukrainian ports in the Black Sea.

Home Lines fans will fondly remember the 1,064-passenger MSC Melody as the homey--and homely--Atlantic (later Premier's Star/Ship Atlantic with the awful "'Big Red Boat" hull). But inside her squat, boxy profile are spacious public rooms with high ceilings, and plenty of open deck space. Fresh from a $10.5-million refurbishment, she sparkles on her seven-night Western Med roundtrips out of Genoa.

The line's globe-trotter is the 764-passenger MSC Rhapsody (nee Cunard Line's Cunard Princess), the recipient of a multimillion-dollar refit in 2004 that upgraded cabins in particular, but left her sleek, contemporary profile unchanged. She sails the Baltic and North seas in the summer, sandwiched by Med cruises, heading to South America for the winter--the long way, via South Africa.

On the horizon, MSC has two 2,550-passenger Panamax ships under construction, due to debut in the springs of 2006 and 2007, and is investigating options for future new-builds--tonnage the line will need as it advances towards the goal of attracting 40 percent American passengers fleetwide. Sasso hopes to have two or three ships based in North America year-round, as the line expands its offerings throughout both North and South America, as well as Europe, Africa, and eventually worldwide. The international cruise experience aboard MSC Cruises is a clear alternative to the homogenous megaliners dominating the American market, an alternative attracting adventurous, sophisticated cruisers. With so many new and varied ships sailing unusual itineraries at competitive prices, MSC is an exciting option.

"We only have one product to sell--memories," says Keesler. "That's the one thing you take home from your cruise." Hop onboard and make some memories of your own.

For more information contact your travel agent or MSC Cruises USA (Cruise Travel Magazine), 6750 North Andrews Avenue, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309; or log on to www.msccruises.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: MSC cruises fleet at a glance.

MSC ARMONIA, 58,700-gross-register-tons/1,566-passengers (double occupancy), built 2001 at Chantiers de t'Atlantique (France) as Festival Cruised European Vision; entered MSC fleet in 2004.

MSC LIRICA, 58,600-grt/1,590-pax, built 2003 at Chantiers for MSC fleet.

MSC MELODY, 35,143-grt/1,064-pax, built 1982 at C.N.I.M. (France) as Home Lines Cruises' Atlantic (later Premier Cruises' Star/Ship Atlantic); entered MSC fleet in 1997.

MSC MONTEREY, 20,046-grt/576-pax, built 1952 at Bethlehem-Sparrows Point (USA) as cargo vessel Free State Mariner; bought by Matson Line and rebuilt into trans-oceanic passenger liner Monterey in 1956; entered MSC fleet in 1995.

MSC MUSICA, 90,000-grt/2,550-pax, under construction at Chantiers, due to enter MSC fleet in spring 2007, ship name subject to change.

MSC OPERA, 58,600-grt/1,756-pax, built 2004 at Chantiers for MSC fleet.

MSC ORCHESTRA, 90,000-grt/2,550-pax, under construction at Chantiers, due to enter MSC fleet in spring 2007; ship name subject to change.

MSC RHAPSODY, 17,095-grt/764-pax, built 1976 at Burmeister & Wain (Denmark) as Cunard Line's Cunard Princess; entered MSC fleet in 1995.

MSC SINFONIA, 58,700-grt/1,566-pax, built 2002 at Chantiers as Festival Cruises' European Stars; entered MSC fleet in 2005.