Travel America: Alluring Albuquerque: in the shadow of phenomenal growth, New Mexico's largest city

WHETHER YOU' RE ARRIVING BY AIR AT THE city's stylish and efficient Sunport or via Interstates 40 or 25, which intersect as one of the nation's busiest crossroads, Albuquerque reveals itself as the sprawling, glass-and-steel go-go Southwestern metropolis that it is. But don't let first impressions fool you.

Just a few miles south of Intel's huge Pentium processor plant on the city's west side, an array of ancient petroglyphs etched at the base of a lava rock escarpment appear as a primitive predecessor to today's modern digital message boards. And only moments north of this monument to the computer age you can probe the mud brick ruins of a Pueblo Indian compound visited in 1540 by the Spanish conquistador Coronado during his search for the fabled Seven Cities of Gold.

A visit to Petroglyph National Monument, on Unser Boulevard off I-40, and Coronado State Monument, in the bedroom community of Bernalillo, is, in fact, how I suggest you begin a tour of Albuquerque--a city far more deeply immersed in history and cultural diversity than most first-time visitors ever imagine. Petroglyphs and adobe ruins, of course, record the Native American connection to this realm of the Rio Grande Valley, fertile and flanked by mountains. Coronado takes things a step further to tell the story of Spanish contact, which set the stage for colonization and more than 400 years of Hispanic influence.

From Coronado State Monument, it's but a 15-minute drive south on I-25 to Albuquerque's Old Town, nestled almost in the shadows of the "Big I," as they call the intersection with I-40. Here you'll quickly get the picture of Albuquerque as a one-time colonial outpost on the Camino Real, the "Royal Road" that linked Spanish settlements all along the Rio Grande to Mexico City. It was right here in Old Town back in 1706 that a petition was granted to Territorial Governor Don Francisco Cuervo y Valdez to establish the "villa" of Alburquerque. Note the extra "r." Granting that seal of approval was Spanish Viceroy Francisco Fernandez de la Cueva, a.k.a. the Duke of Alburquerque. Hence the origins of the city's name. Minus the "r," that is, which apparently just vanished ... nobody seems to know when or why. With or without the ill-fated "r," most outsiders can't spell the city's name anyway, so it really shouldn't matter. And, oh yes, this footnote of history, long Spanish monikers and all, helps explain the city's nickname, the Duke City.

Most notable among the historic adobes hunkered around Old Town Plaza is the 297-year-old church of San Felipe de Neri. It's a lovely example of Spanish New World colonial architecture and a powerful reminder of the central role played by the Catholic Church in the colonization of present-day New Mexico. The tree-lined plaza is hub to a maze of narrow streets and alleys and home to quiet patios, gardens, balconies, and the omnipresent aroma of chili-laden cooking. Tourists pour in to gawk and shop--and hopefully to absorb the atmosphere--generally alive with music, food, and dance. Indians peddle silver and turquoise jewelry along shaded sidewalks, and the work of local artisans sells like hotcakes in dozens of shops and galleries.

Happily for the visitor, many of Albuquerque's other major attractions are close at hand. You can easily walk from Old Town to the Albuquerque Museum, featuring important art and history exhibits; the National Atomic Museum, which chronicles the history of nuclear development; and the New Mexico Museum of Natural History. At this state-of-the-art facility you can walk through a simulated volcano, tour an ice-age cave, and stare in wonder at life-like models of the largest dinosaurs ever to tread the earth. The National Atomic Museum, housed in temporary quarters adjacent to the Natural History Museum, is a newcomer to Old Town, having been forced to evacuate its facility at Kirkland Air Force Base due to security restrictions following the September 11 terrorist attacks.

Just a few blocks west of Old Town, Albuquerque Biological Park stands out as the city's number one tourist attraction. "BioPark" consists of three major facilities: Albuquerque Aquarium, Rio Grande Botanic Garden, and Grande Zoo.

Covering 63 leafy acres and containing more than 1,000 animals, the zoo was established back in 1927 and has been upgraded and expanded to the point that it is certainly among the best zoological parks in the Southwest. Particularly notable are the Inukshuk Bay polar bear exhibit, the new Koala Creek exhibit featuring those loveable koalas and other Aussie critters, and the zoo's splendid collection of big cats. At Albuquerque Aquarium you can learn more about regional aquatic environments by tracing a drop of water from the headwaters of the Rio Grande to the Gulf of Mexico. The Botanic Garden, with its striking glass conservatory, showcases plants of the Southwest and other arid climates.

Yet another important attraction in the same vicinity is the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, on 12th Street, just a block off I-40. For the hurried visitor, a stop at the Center will suffice for visits to most of the region's 19 Indian Pueblos, where the emphasis of late has shifted to casino gambling. Exhibits here trace the history and illustrate the art and culture of the Pueblo peoples, and the Center's open-air plaza hosts a year-round schedule of seasonal and traditional dances. Time your visit if you can to see one of these colorful performances.

In a city famous for its fiestas, none is bigger than the Kodak Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, set to lift off October 4-12. Featuring some 900 hot-air balloons, it's the largest event of its kind anywhere and reputedly the most photographed spectacle in the world. The city's other big fall event is the New Mexico State Fair (September 5-21).

While it's not the state capital (that's Santa Fe), Albuquerque is by far New Mexico's biggest city, with a population of about 500,000, and it is home to the state's largest university. To visit the University of New Mexico and its many fine museums and galleries, take a drive east from Old Town along Central Avenue, through downtown, to University Boulevard. You will likely notice two things en route: First, that Central Avenue is old Route 66--that legendary two-lane blacktop that carried legions east and west for more than 40 years and has since become a lifeline of America's imagination. You'll see repeated reminders all up and down Central of Albuquerque's role in the revitalization of Route 66 history. You'll find, too, that the campus area and adjoining Nob Hill is the city's "character" neighborhood, with its eclectic architecture, funky shops, sidewalk cafes, clubs, and bars.

I've saved until last my nominees as the city's two most unique attractions. First place must go to the National Hispanic Cultural Center of New Mexico. Construction on the huge multi-phase facility began in 1999 along the Camino Real, the 400-year-old "Royal Road" that linked Mexico City to the colonial capital of Santa Fe. Programs reflect the performing, visual, literary, and culinary arts of New Mexico. The Aztec-style Intel Center for Technology & Visual Arts hosts world-class exhibits. The Roy E. Disney Center for the Performing Arts opens in September with multiple theaters.

Once you've explored the city a bit, it's time to climb aboard the Sandia Peak Tramway (the world's longest single-span aerial tram) for a 2.7-mile ride to the top of 10,378-foot Sandia Peak for an overview. Sorry, but I don't know of another major American city that can offer you the means (short of a helicopter ride) to view the place--and hundreds of surrounding miles--from more than 10,000 feet up!

From its base terminal in the city's eastern suburbs, the tram lifts skiers to Sandia Peak Ski Area in the winter; hikers and mountain bikers to a network of trails in the summer; and sightseers all year' round to enjoy the incredible panoramic views. Stay for lunch or dinner at--you guessed it--North America's highest full-service restaurant ... called High Finance.

For more information, contact Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau, P.O. Box 26866, Albuquerque, NM 87125; (800) 733-9918; www.itsatrip.org.