EVERY SUMMER, I HEAD deep into the Missouri Ozarks to spend a few days with my sisters at a rustic resort on the Jacks Fork River. As I drive there on winding country roads through miles and miles of Mark Twain National Forest, admiring the views from the limestone bluffs, stopping to enjoy the picturesque springs, or maybe taking a ferry to cross a river, I wonder anew at the marvels of Missouri. Although I'm always ready to head to the most exotic destinations at the drop of a hat, more and more I'm finding I like it just fine in my own backyard, thank you. There's just about everything right here in Missouri: prairies, forests, rolling hills, big cities, small towns, hiking and biking trails, country music, outlet shopping malls, historical attractions, ethnic heritage, wine country, caves, and Civil War sites--to name just a few. Okay, we don't have ocean beaches, but we do have plenty of fresh water ones along the state's rivers and lakes. The slogan for the state is "Where the Rivers Run." A more apt slogan would be hard to imagine. Missouri is crisscrossed with 50,000 miles of rivers and streams, including its two major ones, the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, plus many lakes, including the Lake of the Ozarks, one of the largest manmade lakes in the world.

Missouri is home to the Ozark National Scenic Riverways, the nation's first federally protected, natural, free-flowing streams. A sort of national park, the river-way was established in 1964 and encompasses 134 miles of the Current and Jacks Fork rivers and includes Big Spring, the country's largest single-outlet spring, with a daily flow up to 846 million gallons; Alley Spring with its landmark red mill; and Round Spring, where you can take a cave tour using handheld lights.

OZARK HERITAGE. The Ozarks area is geologically the oldest region of Missouri, and it is one of the most diverse. Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, an early 19th century explorer, was captivated by it: "The traveller in the interior is often surprised to behold at one view cliffs and prairies, bottoms and barrens, naked hills, heavy forests, rocks, streams, and plains all succeeding each other with rapidity, and mingled with the most pleasing harmony."

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Many of the state's 79 parks and historic sites are found in the Ozarks. Two of the most popular and unusual are Elephant Rocks and Johnson's Shut-Ins.

Elephant Rocks State Park is just what its name implies: giant rocks--even bigger than elephants. These pink granite boulders are some of the oldest rocks on earth--more than 1.5 billion years old. This veritable geological classroom is the product of uplift and erosion--mute testimony to the powers of nature. The park offers kids of any age the opportunity to climb, squeeze, and hide in the labyrinth of fissures and crevasses. There's a Braille trail that introduces the vision-impaired to the natural wonders of the park.

Not far away is Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park, where the swift waters of the East Fork of the Black River flow through chutes, gorges, and potholes of a volcanic area more than a billion years old. This popular park was almost loved to death, leading to the current limited-access policy that controls the number of daily users. The cool waters are a refreshing summer treat, and the area is also a photographer's dream as well as a hiker's delight.

The park is one of several that provide access to the Ozark Trail. This hiking and backpacking trail will someday run more than 500 miles through the state, including some of the most spectacular scenery in the Ozarks.

Each of the state parks has special features, but the Katy Trail State Park is unique. The longest rail-to-trail conversion in the country, when completed it will be more than 235 miles long; for most of its length, it is only 100 feet wide. This railroad corridor preserved for hikers and bicycle riders is highlighted by the diversity of historic structures within sight of the trail, the scenic magnificence of the Missouri River valley, and the historic aspect of the pathway for the settlement of the American West.

THE BRANSON PHENOMENON. To people around the world, the words Ozark and Missouri are indelibly tied to Branson, the music entertainment phenomenon. With more theater seats than Broadway, Branson is the place to see stars like Mickey Gilley, Andy Williams, and Glen Campbell.

There's more to Branson than music theaters, however. The original lure of the small rural town was its scenic beauty in the heart of the Ozarks, plus great fishing and other water sports at Lake Taneycomo and Table Rock Lake and nearby Bull Shoals and Norfork lakes.

Branson's most popular attraction for more than 30 years has been Silver Dollar City, an 1890s Ozark-style theme park. Nearby is the Shepherd of the Hills theme park, where every night during the summer season the dramatic tale from the 1907 book of the same name is enacted in the amphitheater.

For many people, no visit to Ozarks Mountain Country would be complete without a stop at Bass Pro Shops Outdoor World in Springfield. This sportsman's paradise is the No. 1 tourist attraction in the state. Inside, shoppers will find a 30-foot waterfall, fresh- and salt-water aquariums, a boat and RV showroom, wildlife museum, art gallery, and firing range. Springfield's newest attraction--Wonders of Wildlife, the American National Fish and Wildlife Museum and Aquarium--features more than 160 species of live animals.

West of Springfield, the historic town of Carthage abounds with Victorian homes, antique shops, and reminders of an 1861 Civil War battle. Dominating the town square is the Jasper County Courthouse, a castle-like edifice with a tall clock spire. Perhaps Carthage is best known for artist Sam Butcher's Precious Moments Chapel, which features his wide-eyed Precious Moments children in Biblical scenes on murals and stained-glass windows.

MEET ME IN ST. LOUIS. Anchoring either side of the state are its two largest cities, St. Louis and Kansas City, connected by the Missouri River.

Known as the gateway to the West, St. Louis is immediately recognized by its landmark, the 630-foot Gateway Arch on the Mississippi riverfront. You can ride to the top of the Arch for a breathtaking view of both Missouri and Illinois. Under this silvery monument, take time to tour the Museum of Westward Expansion, and don't miss the film documenting how the Arch, one of the world's engineering marvels, was built.

There's much to see and do in St. Louis: Forest Park with its Zoo and Art Museum; the Science Center with an Omnimax theater; Anheuser-Busch Brewery tour; historic Soulard Market; and Missouri Botanical Garden.

Heading west from St. Louis, you'll find St. Charles, the oldest city on the Missouri River. St. Charles is home to two national historic districts and the state's first capitol building (1821-26). The Lewis and Clark Center showcases the famous expeditions that began in this city. The state is gearing up for the bicentennial of the Lewis and Clark expedition, officially known as the Corps of Discovery. Many activities are being planned for 2003-2006.

Gamblers can try their luck on the Missouri River at the Ameristar Casino in St. Charles or Harrah's at Riverport. On the Mississippi, there's the President Casino on the Admiral riverboat in downtown St. Louis; the Casino Queen across the bridge in Illinois; and the Alton Belle upstream in Alton, Illinois.

Continuing west, you'll come to Missouri River Wine Country and the picturesque, historic towns of Defiance, Augusta, New Haven, Marthasville, Washington, and Hermann. These communities boast wineries, quaint shops, B&Bs, access to the Katy Trail State Park, the world's only corn cob pipe factory, and home of pioneer Daniel Boone.

GOIN' TO KANSAS CITY. On the west side of the state is Kansas City, home to great barbecue, hot jazz, and dozens of fountains.

Country Club Plaza was developed in 1920 as America's first shopping center, and its Moorish architecture and European flair still attract shoppers, diners, browsers, and sightseers today.

The Arabia Steamboat Museum provides a fascinating glimpse into frontier life with its exhibits that document the excavated cargo of a riverboat that sank.

Just across the border in Kansas, the city of Overland Park is one of the metro area's top commercial centers, best known to tourists as the home of the NCAA Visitor Center. Here at the headquarters of the National Collegiate Athletic Association, photos and videos represent 21 NCAA sports and spotlight national champions over the years.

Just outside Kansas City, the town of Independence is home to the Harry S Truman Library and Museum. Nearby is the late President's home. Independence, a major stop on the Santa Fe, Oregon, and California trails, is also home to the National Frontier Trails Center, which tells the story of westward migration.