Essence: Wine and dine with ease: what to buy and how to thoroughly enjoy it

WINE, WITH ITS HEADY AROMAS AND COMPLEX FLAVORS, can transform everyday meals into special occasions. More of us are discovering its allure and delight. We're trying different kinds, visiting vineyard regions and no longer waiting for celebrations to pop the cork. And though it's easy to become intimidated by the foreign words and snobbery associated with wine, don't let them get in the way of your pleasure. To help you start (or move to the next level), let's get right to the basics--how to select wine for your meal or party, how to open and serve it, and how to enjoy its many nuances.

TIPS FROM A WINE-CELLAR MASTER

Tonya Hopkins, a food writer, talked with Eric White, who maintains cellars for wineries, restaurants and collectors.

Q: How can a beginner learn to appreciate wine?

A: Sweet wines can make an enjoyable start. But to really get into wine, it's important to engage all the senses. How vibrant is its color? Is its aroma floral, fruity of spicy? How does it feel going down? Is it silky-smooth, or is there texture? And you get much more from sipping than simply drinking wine.

Q: Are older wines always better?

A: Only if they're from regions of the world that have the best grapes, soil and climate for producing wine that can age. These wines are usually more expensive and of high quality. Wine that doesn't age well may end up tasting like vinegar. But many wines are meant for drinking while they're young. Fresh, crisp whites like sauvignon blanc, as well as champagne and other sparkling wines, are best used within six months to a year.

Q: What does it mean to "let a wine breathe"?

A: When the cork is removed from the bottle and the wine is exposed to air, the wine begins to aerate. When it's poured into a glass, it takes on even more air. Some believe that breathing allows wines to soften (especially younger red wines with high tannins). But too much exposure (several hours) can diminish the flavor and structure.

Q: Is it true that all red wines should be served at room temperature and not chilled?

A: Cold masks much of the flavor and aroma of red wine, so it's best to serve it at the temperature of a cool room. Young, simple reds, like Beaujolais, may benefit from a 15-minute chi]l in the refrigerator. Serve white wines chilled but not super cold.

Q: What's the best way to store wine?

A: At cool room temperature (60 degrees or lower). Always store it sideways, away from heat and never on top of the fridge. Too much heat and vibration are harmful to wine.

Q: How do you gauge the amount of wine to buy for a party?

A: You can get four glasses from a standard 750-milliliter bottle. With this in mind, calculate about half a bottle per person.

THE CHEESE TRAY--INSTANT APPETIZERS

Bruce Williams, the cheese attendant at Ombra in the Borgata Hotel, Casino & Spa in Atlantic City, oversees 50 different cheeses. Here are his party-perfect tips:

* White wines complement soft cheeses; reds go well with firm, denser cheeses.

* Present cheeses whole--in their rinds or crusts. (Crusts are commonly eaten; rinds are not.) This also saves you from the needless work of cutting them into cubes or slices.

* Serve cheese on a simple wooden board or tray. A marble slab or banana leaves are also good choices.

* Limit choices to about four and allow space between them. Provide a knife for each cheese.

* Choose simple, rustic breads and unseasoned crackers. Highly flavored ones may overpower the cheese.

* Serve breads and crackers separately, not on the cheese board.

* Include fruits (especially pears) and nuts to enhance the flavor of the cheeses.

ORDERING WINE IN A RESTAURANT: A sommelier pours her heart out

"The first rule is not to be intimidated by a wine list," says Lee Campbell, a sommelier at City Hall Restaurant in Manhattan. "The purpose of wine is enjoyment, and it's easier to learn about and appreciate if you don't take it too seriously." It's the sommelier's job to create the wine list, buy the wines, supervise the service and guide customers in making the best selections for their money. Campbell's advice:

TAKE A SNEAK PEEK AT THE LIST If you're concerned about ordering for a special occasion or if the restaurant has an elaborate list, you can get an early look at prices and choices by calling ahead to get a copy of the list faxed to you, or by visiting the restaurant's Web site.

ASK FOR HELP In casual restaurants, you should ask the manager or your server to suggest a wine that will go well with your meal. If there's a sommelier, rely on her of him to help you make a selection that will please your palate and your purse.

DECIDE WHETHER TO BUY BY THE BOTTLE OR THE GLASS Ordering individual glasses of wine can be more expensive than buying a bottle. Think about how much you might drink. If you're likely to have two glasses, it's more economical to buy a half bottle. If you're likely to have more, it's better to buy a bottle. Some restaurants specialize in wine by the glass and have a wider than usual selection.

TAKE A SIP The server should always open the bottle at the table. (This practice eliminates switching tactics.) If you ordered the wine, a small portion will be poured into your glass. It's important to look at the color and take a sip to be sure the wine isn't cloudy, hasn't turned into vinegar or isn't otherwise defective.. If there's a problem or if the taste is objectionable, this is the time to reject the wine, not when the bottle is half empty.

TRY A LEE CAMPBELL FAVE "When out with a group, I often choose a spicy, juicy California Syrah [aka Shiraz] because it seems to make everyone happy," she says.

BYOB Some restaurants without liquor licenses allow you to bring your own wine, which they will open and serve with your meal for a corkage fee.

WINE CHAT: What does it all mean? Here are a few introductory terms for the novice and a refresher for the wine lover:

Acidity--the tangy, tart, crisp component in wine.

Appellation--growing region where the grapes originated.

Body of bodied--texture or weight of the wine when tasted; a combination of alcohol, extract, glycerol and acid. A wine can be full-, medium- or light-bodied.

Dry--a wine without sweetness. In fully dry wine, the sugar turns into alcohol during fermentation.

Nose--wine's aroma, shaped by type of grape and processing.

Tannins--astringent substances found in the seeds, skin and stems of grapes. They produce a drying sensation on the tongue, ranging from gentle to velvety to harsh.

Vintage--the year the grapes were harvested and the wine made from those grapes.

RESOURCES

A sip of good wine can inspire a lifetime of learning.

WEB SITES

* wineanswers.com * greatwinesmadesimple.com * aboutwine.com

WINE TASTINGS

* The African American Wine Tasting Society, P.O. Box 681, Powder Springs GA 30127; (770) 943-3649, aawts.org, E-mail info@aawts.org.

* TenFolks (Tasting Education and Networking Folks). This group provides wine tastings, cultural events and classes that are geared toward African-Americans and other people of color; (212) 222-5548 of tenfolks.com.

* Wine Spectator's Complete Wine Tasting Kit (Running Press, $40). The collection includes everything you'll need: tasting checklist, stemware tags, bottle tags and quick guide booklets; (215) 567-5080.

VINTNERS

* Association of African American Vintners, P.O. Box 1505, Windsor CA 95492; (707) 620-0788, or E-mail info@aaavintners.org.

BOOKS

* Love by the Glass: Tasting Notes From a Marriage (Random House Trade Paperbacks) by Dorothy J. Gaiter & John Brecher

* Great Wine Made Simple (Broadway Books) by Andrea Immer

HOW MUCH DO YOU NEED?

For overall healthy eating, use these Food and Drug Administration labeling guidelines, based on a 2,000-calorie diet, to help monitor your daily intake. (Age, gender and activity level can affect caloric needs.) Protein: about 50 grams. Total fat: less than 65 grams. Carbohydrate: 300 grams. Sodium: less than 2,400 milligrams. Cholesterol: less than 300 milligrams.

APPLE-GLAZED CORNISH HENS WITH SPICY COUSCOUS Look for heat-and-eat Cornish hens in the refrigerated or deli section of your supermarket or in take-out gourmet shops. Two 1-pound roasted Cornish hens 1/2 cup rose 1/4 cup frozen apple-juice concentrate, thawed Couscous: 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 cup golden or seedless raisins 1/4 cup chopped or sliced scallions 2/3 cup uncooked couscous 1/4 cup toasted slivered almonds Optional garnishes: apple slices and watercress sprigs Heat oven to 400[degrees]F. In small bowl, blend rose and apple-juice concentrate. Arrange hens in shallow baking pan; baste with wine sauce. Place in oven, basting occasionally with pan drippings, until heated through and glazed, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, to make couscous: In medium-size saucepan, combine broth, cinnamon and nutmeg; bring to boil. Stir in raisins, scallions and couscous; remove from heat. Cover and let stand 5 minutes. Using fork, stir to fluff and combine. Spoon couscous onto serving platter; sprinkle with almonds. Top with Cornish hens, garnish with apple slices and watercress. Makes 4 servings, Per serving: 593 calories, 28 grams fat, 169 milligrams cholesterol, 129 milligrams sodium, 43 grams carbohydrate, 36 grams protein. CALIFORNIA BEEF STEW WITH ZlNFANDEL This updated take on a classic is from The Complete Meat Cook by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly (Houghton Mifflin). The authors recommend serving it with roasted rail vegetables and a full-bodied zinfandel from California's Dry Creek Valley. Beef seasoning: 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 to 4 pounds boned beef chuck of round, cut into 2-inch cubes 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup sifted flour 3 cups California zinfandel (about one bottle minus a taste for the cook) 2 cups chopped onions 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 cups chopped canned Italian-style tomatoes, drained 1 cup beef stock or broth 1 bay leaf In small bowl, mix thyme, paprika, salt and pepper, Rub meat thoroughly with mixture. If time permits, marinate up to 2 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. Heat oven to 325[degrees]F. In large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. In large shallow bowl, toss the seasoned meat with flour. Increase heat under skillet to medium-high. Cooking in batches to avoid crowding, shake excess flour from beef and brown meat on all sides. Transfer as cooked to Dutch oven. After browning meat, pour off fat from skillet; add wine and scrape up browned bits from bottom. Add wine to pot with beef. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in skillet over medium heat. Saute onions until golden, about 5 to 7 minutes; add garlic and cook one minute more. Add onion mixture to pot along with tomatoes, beef broth and bay leaf. Bring to simmer, stirring occasionally. Cover pan; bake until beef is fork-tender, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Makes 10 servings. Per serving: 355 calories, 11 grams fat, 75 milligrams cholesterol, 972 milligrams sodium, 12 grams carbohydrate, 37 grams protein. PEARS POACHED IN WINE WITH ORANGE ZEST 4 firm, ripe pears with stems 2 cups sweet white wine (a sauterne works well) 1/4 cup orange juice 1 cinnamon stick Long peel from navel orange, cut into thin strips Optional garnishes: mint leaves Using small end of melon baller or paring knife, cut cores from bottom ends of pears, leaving stems intact. Peel pears. In Dutch oven or large saucepan, stand pears with space between there. Pour wine and orange juice over pears. Bring poaching liquid to boil; reduce heat to medium-low. Cover pan and gently simmer pears, basting occasionally with liquid, until tender, about 25 minutes. Remove pan from heat. If time permits, allow pears to cool in juice, spooning occasionally. Using slotted spoon, transfer them to stand in center of 4 dessert plates. To make sauce: Add cinnamon stick and zest to liquid in pot. Bring mixture to boil; lower heat and simmer until sauce is reduced. Spoon sauce over pears; garnish each with orange zest and mint leaves. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 185 calories, 1 gram fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 6 milligrams sodium, 28 grams carbohydrate, 1 gram protein. SHOP TALK: YOUR GUIDE TO POPULAR FOOD-FRIENDLY WINES Chris Hinton, owner of The Wine Store in Alpharetta, Georgia, and a former NFL player with the Minnesota Vikings, maintains an inventory of about 20,000 bottles. He offers these price-conscious recommendations. (Prices for the same wine can vary.) Under $10 Under $20 Red Cabernet The most famous of the McManis, Kiona, Sauvignon red wines, it tastes of California Washington (kab-er-nay plum and black currant. Gallo of saw-vee-nyon) Goes well with lasagna, Sonoma roast lamb, roast beef, 2001 duck and cheeses. Merlot Its popularity is on the Columbia Crest Stone Gate, (mehr-loh) rise. This medium-bodied Grand Estates, Napa Valley wine has hints of plum Washington and cherry. Goes well with roast beef, steak, lamb chops, pasta, quiche, calamari, eggs and brunch dishes. Zinfandel It leans toward flavors Bogle, Edmeades, (zin-fen-del) of plum, blackberry and California California cherry. Serve with beef stew, chili, pizza, burritos, burgers and French fries. Syrah/Shiraz This rich, full-bodied, Paringa, Mitolo (she-raz) spicy wine thrives in Australia Jester, the Rhone region of Australia France and Australia. Turning Leaf The flavors vary from Reserve herbs to licorice and California black currant. Serve with steak, venison, meat stews, meat loaf and strong cheeses. White Chardonnay The most popular of the Cartledge & Cambria, (shar-don-nay) white wines, the best Browne, California are medium-bodied, California medium-dry and high in acidity. It tastes of butter and tropical fruits. Goes well with fish, fried chicken, sushi, Mexican foods and veal in rich sauces. Riesling Floral and fruity, Chateau Chateau (reece-linp) delicate and subtle, Ste. Michelle, Ste. this is an excellent Johannisberg, Michelle, summer wine. Goes well Washington Eroica, with Asian food, poultry Washington and light meats, fruit and mild cheeses. Sauvignon It's crisp, high in Sterling, Groth, Blanc acidity and California Napa Valley (saw-vee-nyor light-bodied, with blanc) grassy flavor and aroma. Kendall-Jackson, Based on its sweetness, California the flavors range from asparagus to raisin. Enjoy with roasted turkey, dressing, fish and shellfish, canapes, cheese, eggs and vegetarian dishes. Pinot Grigio This darker-colored Ecco Domani, Luna di (pee-no gree white-wine grape Italy Luna, jee-oh) evolved from the pinot Italy noir. It ranges from Luna Wine, light to fairly Napa Valley full-bodied and tastes of pears and applesauce. Enjoy with white meat, spicy food, fish and especially poached pears. Sparkling Champagne Crisp and refreshing Cristalino Cava Roederer with soft bubbles, Brut, Estate, this classic goes with Spain California everything and ranges in price from moderate to exorbitant. Goes well with pasta or risotto, especially with cream or mushroom sauces (avoid heavy tomato-based sauces), vegetables, fish, seafood (especially lobster) and white meats, like veal and pork. Asti This fragrant, slightly La Spinetta Martini & sweet wine is lower in Moscato d'Asti Rossi, alcohol than most wines Italy Italy and is inexpensive, (half bottle) making it perfect for brunch. Goes well with fruit or dessert or on its own. Dessert Sauterne Very sweet, it's a Deinhard Maison (saw-turn) delicious accompaniment Beeren Auslese Nicholas, to a savory appetizer or Germany France a rich dessert. Goes (dessert wine) well with foie gras, desserts, fruit and most berry dishes. Sauternes usually are expensive. Port Made by adding brandy Benjamin Tawny, Noval LBV to fermented red wine, Australia (Late it tends to be very Bottled sweet and smooth with a Vintage), hint of caramel, honey Portugal and dried fruit. Goes well with light desserts, dried fruits, pound cake and fruitcake.