Travel America: California Gold Country: tourists strike it rich in scenic Tuolumne County, a treasu

WE SAT ALONG A WOODEN WALKWAY, OUR boot-clad feet planted in the crystal-clear creek. Following our guide's instructions, each of us submerged our dirt-filled pans, moved them in circular motions to eliminate some of the rocks and sand, lifted them out of the water, swirled, dipped, and swirled and dipped some more, until all that remained was either sand or what we all hoped for--gold.

Most of our glistening flecks turned out to be nothing until one man shouted, "Wow!" He held a pea-sized nugget in his palm, then asked suspiciously, "Did you plant this?"

"No," said the guide, "I don't give away gold." The find, estimated to be worth nearly $100, spurred the rest of us to pan with such renewed intensity that our guide chuckled, "Now you know what it's like to have gold fever."

The sensation made it easy to understand why so many in their quest to strike it rich had come to Tuolumne County, the heart of California's historic Gold Country. This was the Mother Lode. The Gold Rush of 1848 began right near where we were panning in Jamestown, enticing countless prospectors to head for its hills. Visitors still come in droves to the county in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains because it's rich in history, awash in stunning natural beauty, a perfect location for outdoor activities, and offers the chance to experience the excitement of the Gold Rush days.

To delve into the bustling life of the times, Columbia State Historic Park provides the best example of a preserved California Gold Rush town. A livery stable, theaters, saloons (once there were more than 50) look just as they did in the 1800s. Take a stagecoach ride, see sparks fly as the blacksmith forges a horseshoe, tour a gold mine, chat with costumed craftsmen and artisans, stay overnight in a historic hotel. Visit the Wells Fargo office where the original scale weighed out over $55 million in gold. The scale was so accurate that it could weigh the penciled signature on a piece of paper. Fill up on delicious vittles at the Jack Douglass Saloon, where you might find a grizzled-looking but friendly piano player tickling the ivories and guests singing along to "Beautiful Dreamer" and other old tunes.

With a splendid array of mountains, canyons, plains, waterfalls, and rivers, Tuolumne County is a natural when it comes to shooting Western movies. When the film includes a train, it's a good bet the cameras roll in Jamestown's Railtown 1897 State Historic Park, known as "the Movie Railroad." Its trains have been featured in over 200 films, including High Noon and The Unforgiven. Visitors enjoy steam train rides and tours of the roundhouse complex, one of the last of its kind in North America.

Sonora is the county seat of Tuolumne (rhymes with "follow me") County and graced with numerous preserved buildings from the mid-1800s. Its most historic hotel is the Gunn House, a charmer decorated with beautiful antiques. The hotel sits on Washington Street, great for strolling and browsing its antique shops, boutiques, and art galleries. Up the road apiece stands one of Sonora's most elegant buildings, the 1860 St. James Episcopal Church, also known as the "little red church." The Farmers Market, held on Saturday mornings from spring to fall, offers locally grown fresh fruits, vegetables, plants, and flowers, plus assorted handmade crafts.

A few miles east of Sonora, in Tuolumne, you might not find any gold but could walk away with a fortune from the newly expanded Black Oak Casino, operated by the Tuolumne Band of Me-Wuk Indians. Recent updates include an increase in the number of slot machines to nearly 1,000, a live entertainment area seating 250 guests, and seven new bars and restaurants.

In Jackson, less than an hour north of Sonora, Jackson Rancheria Casino & Hotel offers high-stakes bingo and concerts in its beautifully renovated Dalton Town Hall. Recent performers have included Merle Haggard, Tom Jones, and Michael Bolton.

The Gold Rush spurred the birth of many towns, including Groveland. Along scenic Highway 120, the closest and most scenic route into Yosemite from San Francisco and Sacramento, a stop at Groveland Yosemite Gateway Museum offers a glimpse into the town's early days with such items as an old-time camera, cash register, christening gown from 1903, and a model of a mill with mine-working equipment. See some stray bullet holes in the oldest continuously open bar in California, the Iron Door Saloon. Before Groveland was so named it was Garrotte--a warning to those tempted to wander from the straight and narrow. It adopted the more welcoming title once life calmed down.

Just 25 miles from Yosemite National Park, Groveland is a popular stop with travelers. Many stay at the Groveland Hotel, dating back to 1849 and beautifully restored to reflect its history. Once called the "best house on the hill," the hotel claims a resident ghost named Lyle. Groveland also offers several lovely B&Bs, including Alpenglo Bed & Breakfast at Manzanita Hill, with spectacular views of the Sierra foothills.

Throughout Tuolumne County, exhilarating year-round outdoor adventures beckon every level of enthusiast. The county encompasses Stanislaus National Forest--with more than 1,150 miles of trails and 811 miles of rivers and streams--and more than half of Yosemite National Park. The best way to see Yosemite is to lace up the boots and take a hike, but if you're not so inclined, you'll learn a lot on a tram tour through Yosemite Valley. Knowledgeable guides impart countless facts, some of which are surprising, one being that Yosemite Falls dries up. Of the many waterfalls in the park, Yosemite Falls is the world's fifth tallest (2,425 feet) but is usually dry by sometime in August. Bridalveil Falls flows all year and is often the first waterfall seen by incoming visitors.

The tram passes El Capitan, one of the world's tallest monoliths, rising almost 3,000 feet above the valley floor. From the ground below, rock climbers appear as pockmarks against the granite. The climb is certainly not for the faint of heart, yet a few years ago it was accomplished by an 84-year-old man.

Stunning vistas appear throughout the park every season. Winter presents snow covered landscapes; melting snow in spring means spectacular waterfall shows; autumn sets the scenery ablaze in a riot of colors; summer offers long, lazy days and the perfect time to take a raft ride down the Merced River. A manmade sight not to be missed is a National Historic Landmark, the Ahwahnee Hotel, decorated from top to bottom in Native American art and artifacts.

Even if you don't strike gold in Tuolumne County, you'll take home nuggets of valuable information. Know why Levi jeans have rivets on their pockets? Miners complained that the weight of gold in their pockets caused them to rip. The addition of rivets at the corners kept them from tearing away.

Only one of us went home with gold in his pocket, but we were all enriched for having discovered and enjoyed California's true treasure, Tuolumne County.

Contact: Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau, Box 4020, Sonora, CA 95370; (800) 446-1333; www.thegreatunfenced.com.