Cruise Travel: Aruba: a Southern Caribbean Dutch treat

Tiny Aruba, smallest island of the ABC Dutch West Indies off the coast of South America, is an unusual cruise port. If you're standing on an upper deck as your ship approaches, you realize that Aruba is flat (highest point is only 617 feet) and arid. Later you learn the soil is so poor that basically all foods have to be imported, usually from Venezuela, some 15 miles away.

Aruba's topography and vegetation are unusual for a Caribbean island. On the south and west coasts are miles of beautiful whitesand beaches, among the finest in the world. They're rimmed by placid seas offering visibility as deep as 100 feet. The northern coast--the windward shore--is wild. rugged, and pounded by crashing surf. The isle's interior is a miniature desert strewn with huge rock formations and a variety of cacti, frequently grown in tight alignment to create cactus fences.

The Spanish explorer Alonso de Ojeda discovered the island in 1499, but the Spanish, hungry for gold, didn't linger. The Dutch took control in 1636, Oddly, in 1824 gold was discovered and was exported until 1916. Historically part of the Netherlands Antilles (which includes the neighboring ABC isles Bonaire and Curacao, plus St. Maarten, St. Eustatius, and Saba), Aruba became a separate entity within the Kingdom of the Netherlands in 1986. yet retains strong ties to Holland and the Dutch West Indies.

Aruba's economic history divides into three chapters. The first period saw an economy based on gold and the production of aloe--the island's semi-arid climate is ideal for growing this remarkable medicinal plant, at one time producing 30 percent of the world's supply. Then came black gold--oil. In the 1920s, two refineries began operating in Aruba, as oil companies were unwilling to build refineries by the oil fields in unstable Venezuela. But the dream temporarily ended when, in 1950, the Eagle Refinery was closed and later, in 1985, Exxon closed the Lago Refinery. The latter, however, was reopened by a different corporation in 1991.

The third and current chapter began with the development of the tourist industry--first as a major cruise port, and now as an all-around tourist destination. Today Aruba capitalizes on being outside the hurricane belt, with favorable climactic conditions year-round, including an annual rainfall of less than 20 inches and a daily average temperature of 82 degrees tempered with 16-knot trade winds--gusting to 25 knots on some 300 days.

The island is about 20 miles long and six miles across at its widest point with a total area of 70 square miles. Aruba's compactness makes it an ideal port-of-call. Oranjestad, the capital, is located on the southern (leeward) coast near the west end of the island. It has typical Dutch Colonial architecture painted in pastel colors. Unlike some ports, the dock area is within easy walking distance of the downtown area. Leisurely strolling along L.G. Smith Boulevard, official name for the waterfront street, you get a close look at the colorful harbor. First is Royal Plaza Mall, then the market where every morning fresh produce is brought to the island by small boats from nearby Venezuela.

A short distance to the left is Seaport Mall with more than 80 stores and eateries, as well as Crystal Casino and, of course, a McDonald's. There are Aruban restaurants serving the cuisine of many nationalities--such as Argentine, Chinese, German, French, Italian, Japanese--with service in a variety of styles--grill, gourmet, seafood, bistros, and Pizza Hut. Continuing along the waterfront, you see numerous boats docked in the yacht harbor. At the upper end is Seaport Marketplace with more than 50 stores and eateries, Seaport Casino, and Seaport Conference Center.

However, don't confine your visit to shopping and exploring the waterfront. Nearby is Fort Zoutman, oldest building on the island; built in 1796, it saw action only once when the British invaded in 1799. The fort now houses the Museo Arubano where the island's history is illustrated with Indian artifacts and scenes from Dutch colonial days. Of the other two other museums in town, Museo Archeologico delves deeper into Amban Indian life, while the Museo Numismatico displays 30,000 pieces of money from 400 countries, representing Byzantium days to sunken treasure to Amba's current currency.

A short distance west is De Olde Molen, an unusual restaurant housed in an ancient windmill first built in Holland in 1804, then brought to Aruba in 1961 as a tourist attraction. Unfortunately the winds were so strong that the sails had to be removed, and the mill became a restaurant.

If you want to try some very amateur mountain climbing to get panoramic views of the island from coast to coast, then arrange to visit Hooiberg. Standing in the middle of the island, it looks like a giant haystack, which is the translation of the Dutch name. Its 562 carved steps rise to a 541-foot peak where it's possible to see Venezuela on a clear day But the "Haystack" is not the tallest mountain on Aruba--Mt. Yamanota reigns at 617 feet, while Mt. Arikok stand 577 feet tall.

Just north of Hooiberg is a weird geological collection of huge diorite boulders, seemingly dumped in a careless manner by some strange force. (It's theorized that eons ago the island was an extension of the Andes mountains in South America.) Farther north are Casibari Rock Gardens--giant diorite boulders weighing thousands of tons scattered haphazardly. A climb to the top of this huge pile is rewarded by a panoramic view of the southwest section of the island. Walking trails wind through the area affording gradual access to the summit. You'd better be in good shape for this climb, and even so you will find the normal 15-knot wind a handicap. Don't attempt the trek if there is a 25-knot wind. And don't overlook the smaller rocks at the base of pile; their unusual shapes are fascinating.

On the east shore is one of the island's most famous attractions, the Natural Bridge, carved out of the coral rocks by the relentless sea. The bridge is 25 feel high and 100 feet long. Join the tourist parade and walk across while someone takes your picture. Behind the bridge is a large, sandy beach where the waters lap after smashing through the bridge opening; it's a popular spot for picnics.

On the isolated northwestern tip are California Dune & Lighthouse. These rolling sand dunes and old stone lighthouse (named for the wreck of the famous ship) provide spectacular scenery. Nearby is a restaurant.

The island's steady northeast trade winds make Aruba the windsurfing capital of the Caribbean. The classic site for surfing is off the upper end of the west coast where the winds get a clean run across the island. A windsurfing tournament, the Hi-Winds Pro Am, is staged annually in June.

Palm Beach and Eagle Beach are two of the finest in the Caribbean. They're 30 yards wide and stretch for miles along the protected western coast with the bluest of waves gently caressing talcum-powder-soft sands. Other notable beaches are Malok, Arashi, Dos Playa, Boca Prins, Bachelor's, Boca Grandi, Baby, and De Palm Reef Island.

Official currency is the Aruban Florin, referred to as AWG. Most stores were exchanging an AWG at 1.7 to the U.S. dollar. Credit cards are widely accepted, as are dollars. But carry small American bills--to pay with large ones may result in local coins in change, which your ship will not convert to U.S. currency.

A few tips for first-time visitors. Geographically, you are merely 12 degrees north of the equator. The sun is intense and at its strongest between 11 a.m. and 2:30 p.m., when port calls are common. Take it easy getting a tan. Use sunglasses, brimmed hats, and plenty of sunscreen.

Ships from virtually every cruise line plying the Caribbean call in Oranjestad, including Carnival, Celebrity, Costa, Crystal, Cunard, Holland America, Norwegian, Orient, Princess, Radisson Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, and Silversea.

For more information contact your travel agent or the Aruba Tourism Authority (Cruise Travel Magazine), 1200 Harbor Blvd., Weehawken, NJ 07087; call 1-800-TO-ARUBA; or log on to www.aruba.com.