International Travel News: Remedy for stress: the Dominican Republic

Though I had traveled to many places in the Caribbean, the Dominican Republic was not one of them ... until I arrived in December '02. I was unusually surprised at what I found.

American Airlines provided good service across the way, with only a small granola bar and beverage for breakfast on the Miami-Santo Domingo one-hour, 45-minute flight. The fare I paid was $842 round trip from Santa Barbara.

Upon my arrival on Dec. 22, I experienced the fastest Customs and Immigration procedure of any place I've been to in many years. Within minutes of exiting the plane I was in an air-conditioned taxi on the way to my hotel.

Along the way we traveled along a road with five lanes in each direction. The bridges looked modern and well constructed. The Dominican Republic has one of the strongest and most stable economies in the Caribbean. I know there's poverty, but Santo Domingo was the freshest, cleanest, most prosperous city I've seen in a while.

The InterContinental Hotel, for four nights, was a random choice that did not disappoint (more about that later).

But the sense of potential and fun is what pervaded this Dominican Republic trip. There were the many fine beaches on the Caribbean side as well as on the Atlantic; the excellent food that didn't require dosages of Pepto-Bismol and other meds, and the friendliness of the people, who were truly sincere and amazingly welcoming.

The phone system worked extremely well; the old, colonial parts of Santo Domingo were charming, and everywhere I found much cleanliness and a proponderence of trees. The temperature hovered at 8[degrees] F, warmer than many parts of Hawaii and Mexico during late December.

There was ecotourism, 10,000-foot mountains, gambling and exciting nightlife beyond what my age and early bedtime could endure. And safety did not seem an issue whatsoever.

While in bed one weekend night slightly after 9 p.m., I heard loud music emanating from down the street. I tried to survive it and somehow drifted into sleep after midnight. The next night, when the music started about 9, I thought, 'Well, it's my last night. Maybe instead of resisting the music I should try to discover the source and enjoy the evening with a nice, tropical walk.' What did I find? That Motown acts seemingly were transported to the Dominican Republic and landed with a dollop of meringue!

The choreography lifted me back to the fun of the late 1960s and 1970s. All ages of people in the park were moving with a lift, dancing, having a good time--all without apparent drunkenness or malice in the air. This was more fun than Brazil, where I've spent several New Year's Eves and where the occasion was almost more spiritual than fun.

Here was an energy that loosened my spirits and reminded me to enjoy life, cut loose, move to the rhythm and return to enjoy more of the Dominican Republic.

The InterContinental (phone 800/327-0200) is in the Malecon area of Santo Domingo and has all ocean-view rooms. It's behind a thoroughfare,but the rooms are quiet as well as clean and up to acceptable standards; just don't expect it to live up to its 5-star designation. (One day room towels didn't arrive until after 5 p.m., despite two phone calls for them.)

However, the banquet rooms were brimming with flowers for elaborate receptions that would rival the fanciest hotels anywhere. The pool and Jacuzzi area was pleasant, overlooking the ocean, with attached restaurant bar. And the employees were uniformly personable and welcoming.

The food was delicious, even if sometimes served very slowly or at room temperature. I enjoyed dinners for about $15.

I found a good rate for the hotel on the Internet, paying about $100 a night plus taxes. I didn't realize until checkout after four nights that there was a nominal charge for the excellent Dominican Republic coffee next to the coffee maker in the bathroom. It was worth it.

This hotel is the one best-situated for visiting the nearby park and street areas for the weekend free concerts. Warning--you may feel wooden, as the dancers on stage and in the audience will dance and sway in ways you may have never moved. It's not where the banquet clientele of the InterContinental would dance, as the street park concerts attract a more 10wet-middle-class group happy to party without paying big money for the chic, fabled nightclubs of Santo Domingo about which I've only read.

Shopping in the colonial town involves walking through colorful paseos and streets which are picture perfect. Take plenty of film. I was surprised there were so many upscale, tall, well-maintained apartment towers amidst tree-lined streets, with the requisite, almost too numerous, modern shopping malls. It looked like Singapore!

But flava was in the air, and how refreshing it was to discover a new travel destination that excited the senses and safely delivered the authentic experience without being costly and a hassle.

The whole experience was worth it, and the destination is one I'm highly recommending.

Greg Stathakis

Santa Barbara, CA