Alabama Heritage: VESTAVIA'S SIBYL TEMPLE

ORIGINALLY CONSTRUCTED AS a burial monument for one of Birmingham's most flamboyant mayors, the historic Sibyl Temple in the City of Vestavia Hills has a past as intriguing as the man who commissioned it more than seventy years ago. The recently restored gazebo, designed by George Battey Ward in the 1920s, also served as an entrance to a bird sanctuary on Ward's twenty-acre estate on Shades Mountain. A replica of a Roman temple, the eight-columned structure now sits on a bluff overlooking Vestavia Hills to the south and Birmingham to the north. It has survived a dramatic move and been the target of vandals, but the elements have taken the greatest toll on this aging landmark.

Extreme water damage presented one of the biggest challenges to restoration artist Ann Beaird. Although the temple was not in danger of toppling over, there was concern over pieces falling as a result of frozen water. "The water had settled in the cracks during winter, causing the stone to come loose from contracting and expanding. There were some pieces about three feet long, weighing about fifty pounds. The only thing holding them on was the coating of paint," says Beaird. "It was like a jigsaw puzzle, trying to take ten or fifteen pieces, clean out the sand and debris, put the epoxy on them and figure out how to piece everything back. It was no small task."

Beaird single-handedly restored the temple over a four-month period, battling rainy weather and at times dangling from scaffolding more than twenty feet above the ground. When she began the project she had found the temple in fairly poor shape, despite earlier restorations. The sandstone had suffered much delamination and large cracks weakened the dome's eighteen-inch ledge. Aware of the many guidelines for restoring historic structures, Beaird worked long hours to maintain the integrity of the temple. Thanks to her meticulous work, the temple has recovered much of its former glory.

Constructed in 1929, Sibyl Temple once stood as a striking focal point of Ward's grand landscape, which included carved hedges, pools, fountains, and statues of famous Romans. Ward even floated models of Roman ships on his ponds. Frances Poor, former president of the Vestavia Hills Historical Society and the first president of the Sibyl Temple Foundation, explains:

At night, Ward's entire estate lit up the mountaintop. It was during the early days of electricity, so the lights really shone like a constellation. It was a beautiful setting. At his house he also had speakers throughout the grounds playing classical music. he loved to play the piano and entertain large groups of people.

George Ward also had a commitment to improving the growing city. Poor asserts, "He did more than anyone to transform the dirty, mud-rutted pioneer mining town of Birmingham into the metropolis that it is today." Dr. Marvin Whiting, Archival Consultant to the Birmingham Public Library's Department of Archives and Manuscripts, adds, "Ward was a progressive who recognized the inadequacy of our tax structure, and who made the first real effort to clean up Birmingham. His contributions were significant, but he remains one of the many neglected figures in the city's history."

The eccentric Ward, a New South politician with a passion for antiquity, was a member of a prominent Birmingham family who operated the city's first hotel, the Relay House. A partner in the investment firm of Sterne-Agee, Ward served two terms as mayor of Birmingham, beginning in 1905. During his time in office Ward advocated free public education for all. he was also credited with improving the public library, motorizing the fire department, and waging a crusade against gambling, saloons, and prostitution. Ward expanded land for city parks and initiated fiscal responsibility in government. he was a philanthropist, historian, and naturalist. Ward loved parades and could often be spotted in costume. he spent his spare time studying Roman history and had a deep appreciation for the classics, devouring works by Shakespeare and Plutarch.

Ward employed architect William Leslie Welton to design his new house, inspired by a souvenir statue Ward had gotten overseas of what he believed to be the Temple of Vesta. he called his circular home "Vestavia," meaning a hearth by the roadway.

Completed in 1925, Vestavia soon earned international renown. Ward hosted countless parties there, with his servants dressed like Roman soldiers, wearing helmets and carrying swords, while guests glided past in togas. Three of his beloved dogs even lived in templelike houses.

During the Great Depression Ward's home was a source of escape for many Alabamians who could enjoy a Sunday drive with a view of his magnificent gardens filled with Greco-Roman statuary. Often motorists would blow their horns at the peacocks on the lawn, a cue for the birds to display their brilliant feathers. For local residents, accustomed to the smokestacks and furnaces of industrial Birmingham, the Ward estate provided a rare view of ancient opulence and grace, with Sibyl Temple as its crowning focus.

For George Ward, the temple meant much more. He intended it to be the monumental headstone of his own grave. he had built a burial crypt into a cave below it. However, a change in Jefferson County law prevented him from using it. Upon his death in 1940, he was buried in Birmingham's Elmwood Cemetery instead.

Developer Charles Byrd purchased Ward's deteriorating estate and converted it into a restaurant. During the extensive renovation the rose-toned Sibyl Temple was painted white, and its chandelier, benches, and weather vane were removed. Major development of the area surrounding the estate continued, and in 1950 the City of Vestavia Hills was officially incorporated. In 1958 the Vestavia Hills Baptist Church purchased the property, and in 1971 demolished the house to make room for a new sanctuary. The temple was spared the wrecking ball and donated to the Vestavia Hills Garden Club.

During the mid-1970s the Harbert Construction Corporation was contracted to move the temple to its current location. The project was both complicated and time consuming. Locating records from the original architects proved impossible, leaving engineers to wonder if the temple was made of clay that would most likely crumble during the dismantling process. What they uncovered was a structure made of solid concrete, reinforced with steel. The sixty-three-ton dome was also supported by reinforced braces. The columns, each weighing about three tons, then had to be removed using a blowtorch. Because of the detailed Corinthian artwork, castings had to be made of the pattern, as the originals could not withstand the burning of the torch. The columns, sixteen feet tall, were later fitted into a new foundation, which was eventually filled with marble from the old Tutwiler hotel.

Through the years Sibyl Temple has been the setting for countless marriage proposals and the occasional late-night rendezvous. Its silhouette has become something of an icon for the City of Vestavia Hills. Unfortunately, the temple has also attracted vandals on more than one occasion. In addition to vandalism, erosion and other structural problems forced the temple and its grounds to close temporarily throughout later years.

Currently the Sibyl Temple Foundation is raising funds to expand the grounds of the site. Named a Jefferson County Historic Structure a quarter-century ago, the temple is a great source of pride for the many who reside in Vestavia Hills. It serves not only as a symbol of the community, but also as a fond reminder of the politician and historian who made Vestavia his home.

Cindy Riley is a former investigative news reporter who now works as a full-time freelance writer in Birmingham.