Travel America: On A Roll, Southern-Style

Mississippi and Louisiana resorts bring glitz, glamor, and gaming to the Deep South

Surrounded by warm red-orange walls and a deep blue ceiling, we settled into our plush seats in the 1,560-seat theater and watched as a curious figure made his way slowly across the round stage. The lights dimmed as the little man, elegantly attired in a red velvet jacket and jeweled vest that barely covered his bulging belly, was joined in his odd parade by an equally strange trio of bird-like creatures richly dressed in lace, jewels and embroidery.

What followed next was a mind-boggling display of clowning, trapeze work, fire-eating, contortionism, tumbling, and juggling performed by artists from around the globe. Ninety minutes later, with our jaws still down to there, my husband and I turned to each other and exchanged a look that said, "This is a casino show?"

Part Old World circus, part New Age entertainment, this casino show is Alegria, the Cirque du Soleil production that's performed at Beau Rivage (888-750-7111), the imposing 1,780-room casino resort that opened in Biloxi, Mississippi, a little over a year ago. Other unique features also may make you wonder if you're really at a casino at all. There is a stunning pool overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, a yacht-filled marina, upscale restaurants that will make you want to don your best cocktail attire, a shopping promenade, a full-service spa, and spacious bedrooms with gulf or bay views and huge marble bathrooms.

But Beau Rivage isn't alone in combining lavish entertainment, luxury rooms, and luscious dining with gaming excitement on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. There are 11 other casinos strung along the sparkling white sands and blue waters of the coast, each offering a different, but equally enjoyable, vacation experience.

President Casino Broadwater Resort (800-624-3000) in Biloxi is a case in point. The 260-acre complex encompasses the Broadwater, which was built in 1939 and is one of the last grand hotels on the gulf. Guests can choose from 500 renovated luxury rooms, tee off at the resort's own Arnold Palmer-designed 18-hole golf course, play tennis on 10 lighted courts, indulge in water sports at the marina and beach, and dine at five restaurants. On the gaming side, try your luck in a casino designed in the style of a New Orleans French Quarter mansion.

Isle of Capri Casino Biloxi (800-843-4753) is one of the coast's most visually colorful resorts, with a Caribbean-theme decor that runs riot with tones of tropical pink, purple, yellow, and turquoise. Add indoor waterfalls, fountains, and palm trees and you'll swear you're in the Bahamas or Key West. Check into the 370-room hotel, play at the 1,100 slot machines and 40 game tables, dine at the three restaurants, and rejuvenate at the health spa.

Another choice is the New Palace Casino (800-725-2239), a high-rise resort overlooking the gulf that opened this spring in Biloxi. The sparkling new complex has 250 rooms, with three restaurants, a marina, and live entertainment nightly. For more gaming excitement along the coast, there's also Casino Magic Biloxi (800-562-4425), with its 378-room luxury hotel; Treasure Bay (800-747-2839), with a pirate's ship replica marking its spot on the gulf; Casino Magic Bay St. Louis, featuring the Arnold Palmer Golf Academy and Palmer-designed golf course; and Grand Casino Gulf-port (800-946-7777) and Grand Casino Biloxi (800-946-2946), two vast showplace casino resorts with 1,000 rooms each and luxurious full-service spas.

Moving west along the gulf, you'll leave the Mississippi coast casinos behind but find more gaming fun in the neighboring state of Louisiana. One of the newest is Harrah's Casino New Orleans (800-427-7247), with a decor that recreates various areas of the Big Easy from the French Quarter to the Garden District. Located just a few blocks from the famed French Quarter itself, there's even a Mardi Gras parade with miniature floats that unfolds nightly right inside the casino. Another Big Easy casino is Treasure Chest (800-298-0711), located in the eastern suburb of Kenner, where you'll find 1,000 slot and video poker machines, game tables, three restaurants, and live entertainment nightly.

While in southern Louisiana, don't miss the chance to explore the beautiful bayou country in and around Cypress Bayou Casino (800-284-4386) in Charenton, just west of New Orleans. Adding to this casino's hot appeal is the fact that it's just a few miles from Avery Island, home of the world-famous Tabasco sauce (don't miss the free factory tour), and Lafayette, the unofficial capital of Cajun country.

Next head northwest to Grand Casino Coushatta. Located in the little town of Kinder, the casino is owned by the Coushatta Tribe of Louisiana and offers a unique blend of Native American and Cajun cultures. Lodging options range from a modern hotel to a luxurious lakeside RV park on 40 landscaped acres. You'll eat well here, with an all-you-can-eat buffet featuring Cajun and other foods, plus four other restaurants. You'll play well, too, with 75 gaming tables and over 3,000 slot machines, not to mention swimming and tennis. While you're in this part of the state, you can also check out Players Island (800-977-7529) and Isle of Capri (800-843-4753), two casinos in the west Louisiana city of Lake Charles.

Grand Casino Avoyelles (800-946-1946), Louisiana's other Native American-owned casino, is in the little town of Marksville, just north of the state capital of Baton Rouge. Owned by the Tunica-Biloxi Tribe of Louisiana, this friendly casino resort boasts a 218-room hotel, four restaurants, and a complete RV park. You'll literally see stars at the resort's Mari Center, where this year the line-up has included Charley Pride, Paul Anka, and KC and the Sunshine Band.

In Baton Rouge itself, you'll find Argosy Belle of Baton Rouge Casino (800-676-4847), with its striking glassed atrium and Old South steamboat decor, and Casino Rouge (800-447-6843). In northwestern Louisiana, head for the bustling metropolitan area of Shreveport-Bossier City and the Isle of Capri Casino Resort (800-475-3847), with 310 luxury rooms, three restaurants, a tropical pool, and a fitness center. Other casino resorts in the area include Casino Magic (800-562-4425), where garden suites include Jacuzzi tubs, in-room coffeemakers stocked with Godiva coffees, and swanky Gilchrist & Soames toiletries from London. Harrah's (800-427-7247) offers 30,000 square feet of gaming fun.

Once you've made the Louisiana casino tour, head back across the mighty Mississippi and explore the casinos of Natchez and Vicksburg. Tour the gracious antebellum homes in Natchez and try your luck at Lady Luck Casino (800-722-5825) and then head north to Vicksburg, where Ulysses S. Grant scored a critical Union victory in the Civil War. Relive that famous struggle at the Vicksburg National Military Park and then relax at the Isle of Capri Casino (800-946-4753), whose hotel includes 62 riverside suites with whirlpool baths. Or consider a stay at the expanded and refurbished Rainbow Hotel Casino (800-821-8330). The 48-acre resort celebrated its new lodging and gaming facilities this year with a grand opening that featured headliner Jay Leno. Harrah's Vicksburg (800-843-2343) has 117 rooms and three restaurants--the Range Steakhouse, Fresh Market Square Buffet, and 24-hour Coca-Cola Cafe right on the casino floor.

Move on up the river and you'll arrive at Tunica, Mississippi, with its 10 glittering casinos. The big news here is the addition of non-gaming activities to many of the city's casino resorts.

At the Grand Casino Tunica (800-946-4946), for example, there's the Cottonwoods Golf Club and the Willows Sporting Clays facility. After a challenging round of golf or sports clay shooting, guests at the Grand can indulge in a massage or facial at the resort's Bellissimo spa. Golf buffs can also tee off at Riverbend Links, a joint venture of Harrah's Casino Resort (800-427-7247), Hollywood Casino Resort (800-871-0711) and Sam's Town Casino Resort (800-456-0711).

Tunica's Isle of Capri (800-843-4753) is a tropical oasis with shimmering fountains, vibrant colors, towering palms, and indoor waterfalls. Besides gaming, highlights include dining at Calypso's Seafood Buffet and Farraddays' for steak and lobster. Just south of Tunica is Lady Luck Casino (800-789-5825) in Lula.

Finally, for more great casino action, just head to Philadelphia--Mississippi, that is. The little town is due east of the state capital of Jackson and is home to Silver Star Resort and Casino (800-557-0711). Owned by the Mississippi Band of Choctaw Indians, the complex boasts the Dancing Rabbit Golf Course with 36 holes designed by Tom Fazio and Jerry Pate.