Shopper Report, The: Food action moves outside

Al fresco dining is booming because it signifies leisure, sensuous pleasure, and a quality of life that many busy people find elusive. One of our consumers told us that "Atlantic City was ugly up until two years ago. Now it's beautiful." It wasn't the takeout grocery store that changed the whole city for her; it was the bars and restaurants on the beach. "The hotels have tables and chairs right on the beach--you can have sandwiches and drinks and see the ocean at the same time--it's beautiful."

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In its pre-gambling heyday, the outside was what Atlantic City was all about. The boardwalk and beach were almost as famous for saltwater taffy and boardwalk fries as they were for being the world's longest and widest. When the casinos came, they turned the focus 180 degrees to keep the gambling action inside. The outside was ugly, but it didn't seem to matter. Trump opened the first on-the-beach bar three years ago. It has doubled in size, started actual grilling on the beach, and prompted strong competitive restaurants from one end of the boardwalk to the other. As a result, the food action is now outside as well as inside the casinos, and in spite of large blocks of decay, many consumers are now finding it beautiful.

The power of outdoor eating and drinking to create a perception of beauty and vitality is something that Paris discovered centuries ago. The U.S is finally seeing the forest for the trees: Americans have loved cookouts, barbecues, outdoor ice cream cones, and picnics since their first hot dog. A few tables and chairs outside is like a makeover for some pretty dull places, even when the streets are full of ruts and potholes, the noise is city or highway traffic, and the smells are yucky exhaust from cars and trucks.

How many supermarkets could look more robust and enticing with a few tables outside? Yes, I see there is no room. I also see that there is nothing like outdoor heaters and cafe umbrellas to make the squarest places look cool and inviting.